Mya the Plush Panda: Stitch Checkpoints, Assembly Notes, and a Complete Crochet Finishing Guide

Mya the Plush Panda is a medium-difficulty plush crochet project worked with soft chenille yarn, simple shaping, carefully placed increases and decreases, and a series of assembly steps that give the finished panda its rounded character. The completed toy is approximately 26–28 cm (10–11 inches) tall. This fourth version of the guide is organized around stitch checkpoints: instead of treating the pattern as one long sequence, each section highlights the construction point that is most useful to verify before moving on.

The original pattern uses US crochet terminology and assumes familiarity with basic crochet stitches. That matters throughout the project because the instructions depend on recognizing the difference between single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, increases, decreases, slip stitches, and working through back loops. The technical instructions below keep the original numbers, rounds, colors, construction order, and placement instructions unchanged.

Project Materials and Quick Reference

• Dark grey plush yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80320, 100g/120m type.
• White plush yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80301.
• Pink plush yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80303.
• Blue plush yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80306.
• Black thread for embroidering the muzzle, using YarnArt Jeans 53.
• 14 mm safety eyes.
• Optional 15 mm safety nose.
• 4.00 mm crochet hook.
• Polyester fiber fill.

The finished toy is around 26–28 cm (10–11 inches) tall. The pattern is described as medium difficulty and does not include crochet lessons, so a comfortable knowledge of basic crochet techniques is recommended.

Abbreviations

• st — stitch
• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• hdc — half double crochet
• dc — double crochet
• inc — increase
• dec — decrease
• (sc, inc)* n — repeat the stitches inside the brackets n times

Checkpoint 1: Build Both Arms with the Correct Shape

Start both arms with dark grey yarn. Only the lower two-thirds of each arm should be stuffed. This is an important shaping choice: overstuffing the entire arm can make it harder to flatten the upper opening later.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).
4. Round 4: 15 sc.
5. Round 5: 9 sc, 3 dec (12).
6. Rounds 6–8: 12 sc (3 rounds).

Change to pink yarn.

9. Round 9: 12 sl st.
10. Round 10: Back loops only, working in the back loops of the slip stitches made in round 9: 12 sc.
11. Round 11: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9).
12. Round 12: 9 sc.
13. Round 13: Crochet only 3–4 sc. The 3 decreases from round 5 should be positioned in the middle of the arm. Flatten the arm and crochet 4 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Stitch checkpoint: Before making the second arm, compare it visually with the first. The shaping should match, the pink section should begin at the same point, and the flattened top should be positioned consistently. This is one of the easiest places to preserve symmetry before the parts are attached to the body.

Checkpoint 2: Form the Legs and Prepare the Body Connection

Work both legs in grey yarn and stuff as you go. The leg construction is deliberately fuller than the arm construction, so keep the stuffing firm but controlled while maintaining the round shape.

1. Round 1: 8 sc into a magic ring (8).
2. Round 2: 8 inc (16).
3. Round 3: (sc, inc)*8 (24).
4. Round 4: 24 sc.
5. Round 5: 6 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc (20).
6. Round 6: 5 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc (15).
7. Rounds 7–9: 15 sc (3 rounds).

For the left leg, round 10 is only 11 sc; then fasten off and cut the yarn. For the right leg, round 10 is 15 sc and the yarn is not cut because the body continues directly from this leg.

Checkpoint: Keep the left and right legs clearly identified. Their different round-10 finishing instructions are intentional and are essential to the later body join.

Checkpoint 3: Join the Legs and Establish the Body

Continue with grey yarn and stuff the body as you go. On the right leg, crochet 6 sc more, then change to blue yarn. Leave a tail for sewing when connecting the blue section.

1. Round 1: ch 3 and attach to the left leg where you stopped; 15 sl st left leg; 3 sc front of chain; 15 sl st right leg; 3 sc back of chain; place the marker here (36), with the marker in back. If a hole appears between the legs, sew the gap with blue thread.
2. Round 2: 15 sc on the back loops of the slip stitches, 3 inc, 15 sc on the back loops of the slip stitches, 3 inc (42).
3. Rounds 3–9: 42 sc (7 rounds).

Change to pink yarn.

10. Round 10: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).
11. Round 11: Back loops only: 36 sc.
12. Round 12: 36 sc.
13. Round 13: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30).
14. Round 14: 30 sc.
15. Round 15: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).

Crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the back.

Checkpoint 4: Attach the Arms Symmetrically

Round 16 is the key body assembly round. It joins both arms directly into the crochet fabric of the body.

16. Round 16: 4 sc, 4 sc through the first arm and body, 8 sc, 4 sc through the second arm and body, 4 sc (24).
17. Round 17: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18).
18. Round 18: 18 sc.

Check that the arms are symmetrical in relation to the legs. If they are not, correct the stitches before continuing. After round 18, make a slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly, especially around the neck.

Why this checkpoint matters: Once the arms are incorporated into the body and the neck is stuffed, changing their position becomes much more difficult. Take a moment to view the toy from the front and back before proceeding.

Checkpoint 5: Create the Dress Without Losing the Body Shape

Attach pink yarn to the back in the front loops of round 11, with the body turned upside down.

1. Round 1: ch 2, (2 dc in one st)*36, sl st (72).
2. Rounds 2–3: ch 2, 72 dc, sl st (2 rounds).

Change to blue yarn.

4. Round 4: (ch 2, sc in next stitch)*72 (216).

Fasten off and cut the yarn, then hide it inside the dress.

The dress is a good place to check tension. The skirt should be allowed to form its intended flare without pulling the body out of shape. Avoid changing the stitch count or adding extra rounds, because the pattern’s 72-stitch and 216-stitch counts define the design.

Checkpoint 6: Add the Two Flowers

Make two flowers: one blue and one pink. Each flower begins with a magic ring or ch 2.

Flower pattern: (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st)*5. Tighten the ring, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the blue flower to the dress in round 11. Sew the pink flower on the head near one ear. Keeping these placements consistent gives the finished panda the same decorative balance as the original design.

Checkpoint 7: Make the Ears and Tail with Different Stuffing Rules

Ears

Use grey yarn and do not stuff the ears.

1. Round 1: 7 sc into a magic ring (7).
2. Round 2: 7 inc (14).
3. Round 3: 14 sc.
4. Round 4: Flatten the ear and crochet 7 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Tail

Use grey yarn and stuff the tail only a little.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).
4. Round 4: 15 sc (15).
5. Round 5: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12).

Slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail lightly and sew it onto the back in rounds 5–7.

Checkpoint 8: Build the Head and Track the Color Changes

The head starts in white yarn and is stuffed as you go. The color placement in rounds 5–7 is an important visual part of the panda design.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18).
4. Round 4: 18 sc.

Join grey yarn. The source pattern marks the grey stitches in red while the remaining stitches are white.

5. Round 5: 4 sc, inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, 2 inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, inc hdc, 4 sc (28).
6. Round 6: 5 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*3, (sc, inc)*2, sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, 4 sc (38).
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, sc, sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc, sc, inc, 4 sc (48).

Cut the grey yarn and continue with white yarn. If grey spots remain visible on white areas, the pattern notes that they can be embroidered over with white yarn.

Checkpoint 9: Place the 14 mm Safety Eyes Exactly

Before continuing beyond the head shaping, insert the 14 mm safety eyes in the third and eighth increases of round 6. There are 4 visible increases between them.

This is a placement checkpoint rather than a stitch-count change. The important point is to identify the specified increases before securing the eyes. Compare the eye height and horizontal spacing from the front before moving forward.

Checkpoint 10: Join the Ears While Preserving Symmetry

1. Rounds 8–11: 48 sc (4 rounds).

Crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the bottom of the head. Join the ears with the front side toward you.

12. Round 12: 12 sc, 7 sc through the first ear and head, 10 sc, 7 sc through the second ear and head, 12 sc (48).
13. Rounds 13–14: 48 sc (2 rounds).
14. Round 15: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42).
15. Round 16: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).
16. Round 17: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30).
17. Round 18: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).
18. Round 19: (sc, dec)*8 (16).
19. Round 20: 8 dec (8).

Check the ear symmetry at round 12 and correct stitches if needed. Stuff the head firmly, especially around the muzzle. Close the opening and hide the yarn.

Checkpoint 11: Sculpt the Face Before Embroidering the Muzzle

The face sculpting uses six marked points shown in the source photograph. Mark points 1–6 with pins, with points 1 and 2 located in round 7.

1. Insert a long threaded needle at point 1 and pull it out at point 3.
2. Insert it at point 4 and pull it out at point 2.
3. Insert it through point 1 and pull it out at point 5.
4. Insert it at point 6 and pull it out at point 2.

The thread should remain under the eyes. Pull the thread ends tightly until the desired indentation is reached, tie a knot, and hide the thread inside the head.

Checkpoint 12: Shape the Muzzle and Finish the Face

Insert the needle with black or plush thread at the bottom of the muzzle and pull it out between rounds 3 and 4. Repeat this 2–3 times, pulling tightly until the muzzle separates into two parts. Tie a knot. Make another turn for the black middle line.

For the nose, embroider with black thread between rounds 3 and 4, or glue a plastic nose. The optional safety nose specified in the materials is 15 mm. Pink blush can be used on the cheeks. The pattern also notes that the eyes may be embroidered or doll lashes may be glued.

Final Checkpoint: Sew the Head to the Body

Sew the head to the body through head rounds 8–13. Work around the join carefully so the head remains centered over the legs and the arms maintain their symmetrical position.

If a small hole remains while sewing, add more polyester fiber fill so the neck becomes more stable. This is a finishing adjustment to the stuffing, not a change to the crochet stitch pattern.

Common Construction Problems and How to Check Them

The arms look uneven

Return to the body join and compare their positions against the legs. The original pattern specifically instructs you to check arm symmetry after round 16. If necessary, correct the stitches before continuing.

A hole appears between the legs

The body instructions explicitly allow the gap between the legs to be sewn with blue thread. Check this before the body becomes difficult to access.

The neck feels soft

Firm stuffing is especially important at the neck. During final head assembly, if a little hole remains, add more fiber fill to stabilize the neck.

The ears do not match

Compare their positions during the round-12 join. The pattern specifically says to check ear symmetry and correct stitches if needed.

The head does not have enough facial definition

Check the six-point sculpting sequence and make sure the thread passes under the eyes. Pull the thread ends gradually until the desired indentation is achieved rather than changing the crochet rounds.

The grey facial spots are visible in the wrong areas

The source notes that grey spots on white areas can be embroidered over with white yarn. This keeps the original crochet structure intact.

Complete Stitch Checkpoint Checklist

• Both arms are made in dark grey, with pink beginning at round 9.
• Only the lower two-thirds of each arm is stuffed.
• Each arm ends with the specified flattened 4-sc join through both sides.
• Both legs are stuffed as you go.
• The left leg stops at 11 sc in round 10.
• The right leg continues with 15 sc in round 10 and is not cut.
• The body begins with the specified ch 3 connection and 36-stitch first round.
• The body reaches 42 stitches for rounds 2–9.
• The pink body shaping follows rounds 10–15 exactly.
• The arms are joined in round 16 with 24 stitches.
• The body is stuffed firmly, especially at the neck.
• The dress begins from the front loops of round 11 with the body upside down.
• The dress has 72 stitches in round 1 and 216 stitches in blue round 4.
• The blue flower is sewn to the dress in round 11.
• The pink flower is sewn to the head near one ear.
• The ears are not stuffed.
• The tail is stuffed only lightly and sewn on back rounds 5–7.
• The head uses white and grey according to the specified rounds 5–7.
• The 14 mm safety eyes are inserted in the third and eighth increases of round 6, with 4 visible increases between them.
• The ears are joined through the head in round 12.
• The head is firmly stuffed, especially around the muzzle.
• The six-point facial sculpting is completed before final facial embroidery.
• The muzzle is worked between rounds 3 and 4 as specified.
• The head is sewn to the body through head rounds 8–13.

Finishing the Mya the Plush Panda

Once the head, body, arms, legs, ears, tail, dress, flowers, and facial details are complete, take a final front-and-back inspection. The most important finishing qualities are symmetry, firm but controlled stuffing, clean hidden yarn ends, and careful placement of the decorative elements. Because the pattern relies on several intentional asymmetrical construction steps during joining, the final appearance is best checked visually rather than by changing any stitch counts.

Keep the panda upright while checking the relationship between the legs, arms, ears, face, and dress. The pink and blue details should remain visually distinct, while the grey and white head shaping should create the intended panda appearance. The muzzle should have the sculpted separation produced by the thread work, and the eyes should remain at the specified positions.

Final Thoughts

Mya the Plush Panda is a rewarding project for crocheters who enjoy combining regular amigurumi rounds with shaping, color changes, direct limb attachment, dress construction, floral embellishment, and facial sculpting. The most useful way to approach the pattern is to treat each section as a checkpoint: finish the crochet, compare the shape, verify the specified placement, and only then continue.

The technical sequence remains the foundation of the project. Keeping the original hook size, yarn colors, stitch counts, round numbers, safety-eye placement, stuffing instructions, and assembly points unchanged is what allows the finished panda to retain the intended proportions. With those details checked as you work, the final result is a soft 26–28 cm (10–11 inch) plush panda with a structured dress, flowers, rounded limbs, expressive facial shaping, and a stable finished neck.