Mya the Plush Panda Crochet Workshop: A Detailed Construction and Finishing Guide

Mya the Plush Panda is a charming plush crochet project designed around careful shaping, joining, stuffing, and facial finishing. The completed toy is approximately 26–28 cm (10–11″) tall. Although the finished panda looks simple and soft, the construction includes several important checkpoints where stitch placement, symmetry, stuffing, and color changes make a noticeable difference.

This third article approaches the pattern as a practical crochet workshop. Instead of simply moving from one round to the next, the project is divided into construction stages so you can pause, inspect your work, and make sure the piece is positioned correctly before continuing. The technical instructions remain exactly tied to the original pattern, including its US crochet terminology, stitch counts, round numbers, color changes, and assembly instructions.

The original pattern is rated medium difficulty and assumes familiarity with basic crochet stitches. If you are comfortable with a magic ring, single crochet, increases, decreases, slip stitches, half double crochet, double crochet, and basic sewing, the individual techniques can be followed step by step while using the checkpoints below to keep the finished shape organized.

Materials and Tools for the Workshop

Before beginning, place all of the materials beside your work area. The pattern calls for plush yarn in four colors, plus a separate black thread for the muzzle.

• Plush yarn, 100g/120m, dark grey: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80320.
• Plush yarn, 100g/120m, white: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80301.
• Plush yarn, 100g/120m, pink: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80303.
• Plush yarn, 100g/120m, blue: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80306.
• Black thread for embroidering the muzzle, using YarnArt Jeans 53.
• 14 mm safety eyes.
• 15 mm safety nose, optional.
• 4.00 mm crochet hook.
• Polyester fiber fill.

The pattern uses US crochet terminology. The abbreviations are st for stitch, ch for chain, sl st for slip stitch, sc for single crochet, hdc for half double crochet, dc for double crochet, inc for increase, and dec for decrease. When an instruction is written as (sc, inc)*8, the bracketed sequence is repeated eight times.

Stage One: Establish the Arms

Make two arms in dark grey yarn. Stuff only the lower two-thirds of each arm. Keeping the upper section less filled allows it to be flattened and closed as instructed later.

Round 1: crochet 6 sc into a magic ring (6).

Round 2: 6 inc (12).

Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).

Round 4: 15 sc.

Round 5: 9 sc, 3 dec (12).

Rounds 6–8: 12 sc for 3 rounds.

Change to pink yarn for round 9 and work 12 sl st. For round 10, crochet 12 sc in the back loops only, specifically in the back loops of the slip stitches made in round 9.

Round 11 is (2 sc, dec)*3 (9), and round 12 is 9 sc.

For round 13, crochet only 3–4 sc. The three decreases from round 5 should be in the middle of the arm. Flatten the arm and crochet 4 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Stage Two: Shape the Legs

The legs are made in dark grey yarn and are stuffed as you go. Begin each leg with 8 sc into a magic ring (8).

Round 2 is 8 inc (16). Round 3 is (sc, inc)*8 (24). Round 4 is 24 sc.

Round 5 is 6 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc (20). Round 6 is 5 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc (15). Rounds 7–9 are 15 sc.

Round 10 is where the two legs deliberately become different. For the left leg, crochet only 11 sc, then fasten off and cut the yarn. For the right leg, crochet 15 sc and do not cut the yarn because the right leg continues directly into the body.

This is an important construction checkpoint. Do not try to make the two legs identical at this stage. The different finishing instructions are part of the original joining method.

Stage Three: Connect the Legs and Begin the Body

Continue with grey yarn and stuff the body as you go. On the right leg, crochet 6 sc more, then change to blue yarn. Leave a tail for sewing when connecting the blue section.

For body round 1, chain 3 and attach to the left leg where it stopped. Work 15 sl st on the left leg, 3 sc across the front of the chain, 15 sl st on the right leg, and 3 sc across the back of the chain. Place the marker here, in the back. The round contains 36 stitches.

If a hole appears between the legs, sew the gap with blue thread.

For round 2, work 15 sc on the back loops of the slip stitches, 3 inc, 15 sc on the back loops of the slip stitches, and 3 inc (42).

Rounds 3–9 are 42 sc for each round.

At this point, inspect the body from the front and back. The two legs should sit naturally beneath the body, and the marker should remain in the back. Because the dress will later be attached to the front loops of round 11, keeping the body construction organized now makes the later finishing stages easier to follow.

Stage Four: Shape the Upper Body

Change to pink yarn for round 10. Work (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).

Round 11 is 36 sc in the back loops only. Round 12 is 36 sc.

Round 13 is (4 sc, dec)*6 (30). Round 14 is 30 sc. Round 15 is (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).

Before joining the arms, crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the back. This is a positioning adjustment specifically given by the pattern and should be used to establish the correct joining point.

Stage Five: Join Both Arms

Round 16 is the arm-joining round. Crochet 4 sc, 4 sc through the first arm and body, 8 sc, 4 sc through the second arm and body, and 4 sc (24).

Pause here for a symmetry check. The pattern instructs you to compare the arms with the legs. If they are not symmetrical, correct the stitches at this point rather than waiting until the body is completely closed.

Round 17 is (2 sc, dec)*6 (18). Round 18 is 18 sc.

Slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn while leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly, paying particular attention to the neck area.

Stage Six: Create the Dress

The dress is attached to the front loops of round 11. Turn the body upside down and attach pink yarn to the back in the front loops of that round.

Dress round 1: ch 2, (2 dc in one st)*36, sl st (72).

Dress rounds 2–3: ch 2, 72 dc, sl st for each round.

Change to blue yarn for round 4. Work (ch 2, sc in next stitch)*72 (216).

Fasten off and cut the yarn, then hide the end inside the dress.

When checking the skirt, focus on keeping the round evenly distributed around the body. The pattern does not call for changing the stitch count to adjust the skirt, so keep the stated 72 stitches in rounds 2–3 and 216 in round 4.

Stage Seven: Add the Flowers

Make two flowers: one blue and one pink. Each flower can begin with a magic ring or ch 2.

Work (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st)*5. Tighten the ring, fasten off, and cut the yarn while leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the blue flower to the dress in round 11. Sew the pink flower onto the head near one ear.

Keep the sewing tails long enough to attach the flowers securely. Their placement is part of the finished character design, so check the position visually before making the final securing stitches.

Stage Eight: Make the Ears

The ears are crocheted in grey yarn and are not stuffed.

Round 1: 7 sc into a magic ring (7).

Round 2: 7 inc (14).

Round 3: 14 sc.

Round 4: flatten the ear and crochet 7 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Make both ears using the same process. Before attaching them to the head, compare their size and flattened shape. The later joining instructions also include a specific symmetry checkpoint.

Stage Nine: Shape and Attach the Tail

Use grey yarn and stuff the tail only a little.

Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).

Round 2: 6 inc (12).

Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).

Round 4: 15 sc (15).

Round 5: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12).

Slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn while leaving a long sewing tail. Stuff the tail lightly and sew it onto the back in rounds 5–7.

Stage Ten: Build the Head

The head begins with white yarn and is stuffed as you go.

Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).

Round 2: 6 inc (12).

Round 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18).

Round 4: 18 sc.

Join grey yarn for round 5. Work 4 sc, inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, 2 inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, inc hdc, 4 sc (28).

Round 6 is 5 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*3, (sc, inc)*2, sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, 4 sc (38).

Round 7 is 5 sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, sc, sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc, sc, inc, 4 sc (48).

Cut the grey yarn and continue with white. The pattern notes that grey spots appearing on white areas can be embroidered over with white yarn.

Stage Eleven: Place the Safety Eyes

Insert the 14 mm safety eyes in the third and eighth increases of round 6. There are 4 visible increases between them.

This placement should be checked before moving farther down the head. Look at the face from the front and make sure the two eyes are positioned according to the specified increases rather than estimating their location by appearance alone.

Rounds 8–11 are 48 sc for each round.

After round 11, crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the bottom of the head.

Stage Twelve: Join the Ears to the Head

Join the ears with the front side facing toward you.

Round 12 is 12 sc, 7 sc through the first ear and head, 10 sc, 7 sc through the second ear and head, 12 sc (48).

Check the ears for symmetry at this stage. The original instructions specifically allow you to correct the stitches if the ears are not symmetrical.

Rounds 13–14 are 48 sc.

Stage Thirteen: Close and Stuff the Head

Round 15: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42).

Round 16: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).

Round 17: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30).

Round 18: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).

Round 19: (sc, dec)*8 (16).

Round 20: 8 dec (8).

Stuff the head firmly, especially around the muzzle. Close the opening and hide the yarn.

Firm stuffing at this stage is important because the following sculpting process depends on having a stable, filled head. Avoid leaving the muzzle area loose before beginning the facial shaping.

Stage Fourteen: Sculpt the Panda Face

Use pins to mark points 1–6 as shown in the source photograph. Points 1 and 2 are in round 7.

Insert a long threaded needle at point 1 and pull it out at point 3. Insert the needle into point 4 and pull it out at point 2. Insert it through point 1 and pull it out at point 5. Insert it into point 6 and pull it out at point 2.

The thread should pass under the eyes. Pull the thread ends tightly until the desired indentation is achieved. Tie a knot and hide the thread inside the head.

This is a visual finishing stage, so work carefully and gradually. The source specifies the needle path and instructs you to tighten the thread until the desired indentation is achieved. It does not provide a separate numerical depth, so do not invent one.

Stage Fifteen: Embroider the Muzzle

Insert the needle with black or plush thread at the bottom of the muzzle and pull it out between rounds 3 and 4.

Repeat this 2–3 times, pulling tightly until the muzzle separates into two parts. Tie a knot. Make another turn for the black middle line.

Using black thread, embroider the nose between rounds 3 and 4, or glue a plastic nose. The optional safety nose listed in the materials is 15 mm.

Color the cheeks with pink blush. The pattern also allows you to embroider the eyes or glue doll lashes.

Stage Sixteen: Sew the Head to the Body

Sew the head to the body through head rounds 8–13.

While sewing, keep the head centered against the body. If a small hole remains, add more fiberfill so the neck is more stable. Continue sewing until the connection is secure and the head sits firmly.

Construction Checkpoints Before Finishing

• The finished toy should be approximately 26–28 cm (10–11″) tall.
• The hook is 4.00 mm.
• The arms use dark grey first and change to pink at round 9.
• The arms are stuffed only through the lower two-thirds.
• The legs are stuffed as you go.
• The left leg stops at 11 sc in round 10.
• The right leg has 15 sc in round 10 and continues without cutting the yarn.
• The body begins with a 3-chain connection and reaches 36 stitches in round 1.
• Body round 2 reaches 42 stitches.
• Body rounds 3–9 remain at 42 sc.
• The body changes to pink for round 10.
• The arms are checked for symmetry after joining.
• The dress is attached to the front loops of round 11.
• The dress reaches 72 stitches in round 1 and 216 in blue round 4.
• The blue flower is sewn to the dress in round 11.
• The pink flower is sewn to the head near one ear.
• The ears are not stuffed.
• The tail is lightly stuffed and sewn onto the back in rounds 5–7.
• The 14 mm safety eyes are placed in the third and eighth increases of round 6.
• There are 4 visible increases between the eyes.
• The ears are joined in round 12 and checked for symmetry.
• The head is stuffed firmly, especially around the muzzle.
• The facial sculpting uses six marked points.
• The muzzle is embroidered between rounds 3 and 4.
• The optional plastic/safety nose is 15 mm.
• The head is sewn to the body through head rounds 8–13.

Common Problems and Pattern-Safe Solutions

The legs look different before joining

This is expected because the left leg and right leg have different round 10 instructions. The left leg ends after 11 sc, while the right leg continues with 15 sc and then 6 more sc before the body construction.

There is a gap between the legs

The original instructions specifically say that if a hole appears between the legs, the gap should be sewn with blue thread.

The body marker is not in the correct position

Before joining the arms, crochet 1–2 additional sc so that the marker is exactly in the middle of the back. This is the adjustment specified by the pattern.

The arms are not symmetrical

Check the arm positions during round 16. The pattern instructs you to correct the stitches if the arms are not symmetrical to the legs.

The ears are uneven

Inspect the ears during round 12 after joining them. Correct the stitches if necessary so the ears sit symmetrically.

The neck feels unstable

Stuff the body firmly, especially around the neck. When attaching the head, if a small hole remains, add more fiberfill so the neck becomes more stable.

Grey marks appear on a white area of the head

The source specifically notes that grey spots on white areas can be embroidered over with white yarn.

Final Finishing Routine

Before calling the project complete, inspect the panda from the front, side, and back. The arms should relate symmetrically to the legs, the ears should sit evenly, and the tail should be positioned on the back in rounds 5–7. The dress should fall around the body without changing the original stitch count.

Check that all visible sewing is secure and that yarn ends are hidden. Pay special attention to the neck seam because the head is a relatively important structural component of the finished plush.

For the face, check the relationship between the safety eyes, sculpted muzzle, embroidered nose, and optional cheek blush. The source also permits embroidered eyes or glued doll lashes, but these are finishing options rather than changes to the core crochet construction.

What Makes This Project a Good Construction Exercise?

Mya combines several useful plush-crochet techniques in one project. The arms demonstrate controlled color changes and flattening. The legs demonstrate asymmetric finishing because they are joined into the body. The body introduces joining, back-loop work, stuffing, and arm attachment. The dress adds double crochet and a larger decorative round, while the flowers introduce a small motif that can be sewn onto the finished pieces.

The head is particularly useful as a finishing exercise because it combines color shaping, safety-eye placement, ear joining, firm stuffing, sculpting, and embroidery. These stages demonstrate why finishing details should be treated as part of the pattern rather than as an afterthought.

Final Workshop Checklist

1. Complete both arms and close them according to the specified rounds.
2. Complete both legs, remembering that round 10 is different on the left and right legs.
3. Connect the legs and build the body through round 18.
4. Stuff the body firmly, especially at the neck.
5. Attach the arms while checking symmetry.
6. Create the dress from the front loops of round 11.
7. Make and attach the blue and pink flowers.
8. Make the unstuffed ears.
9. Make and lightly stuff the tail.
10. Build the head and place the 14 mm safety eyes according to round 6.
11. Join the ears and check their symmetry.
12. Close and firmly stuff the head.
13. Complete the six-point facial sculpting process.
14. Embroider the muzzle and nose.
15. Attach the head through rounds 8–13.
16. Hide the remaining yarn ends and inspect the finished panda.

Conclusion

The finished Mya the Plush Panda is the result of many small construction decisions working together: precise stitch counts, deliberate color changes, controlled stuffing, symmetrical joins, and careful facial finishing. Following those checkpoints helps preserve the intended proportions without changing the original pattern.

The most useful habit throughout this project is to pause at every major joining point. Check the body before attaching the arms, check the ears before closing the head, check the eye placement before continuing, and check the neck while sewing the head to the body. These inspections do not require changing the pattern; they simply help you execute its instructions accurately.

Once the final sewing is complete and the muzzle has been sculpted and embroidered, Mya is ready to become the finished plush panda shown at the beginning of this guide.