Mya the Plush Panda Crochet Masterclass: From First Round to Final Face

Making Mya the Plush Panda is more than a matter of completing a list of crochet rounds. The project combines soft plush yarn, controlled increases and decreases, separate limbs, a joined body, a decorative dress, flowers, shaped ears, a lightly stuffed tail, a carefully constructed head, safety-eye placement, facial sculpting, and final embroidery. This fifth guide approaches the project as a beginner-friendly finishing masterclass: each major component is explained with attention to what should be checked before moving to the next stage.

The finished panda is approximately 26–28 cm (10–11 inches) tall. The original pattern is rated medium difficulty, uses US crochet terminology, and assumes familiarity with basic crochet stitches. This guide keeps the original technical information unchanged, including yarns, hook size, stitch counts, rounds, color changes, stuffing instructions, placement details, and assembly instructions.

Before You Begin: Materials, Terminology, and Workflow

Prepare the following materials before starting. The plush yarn listed in the source is 100g/120m and is used in four colors:

• Dark grey: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80320.
• White: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80301.
• Pink: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80303.
• Blue: Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80306.
• Black thread for embroidering the muzzle: YarnArt Jeans 53.
• Safety eyes: 14 mm.
• Optional safety nose: 15 mm.
• Crochet hook: 4.00 mm.
• Stuffing: polyester fiber fill.

US Crochet Abbreviations

• st — stitch
• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• hdc — half double crochet
• dc — double crochet
• inc — increase
• dec — decrease
• (sc, inc)* n — repeat the bracketed stitches n times

Because plush yarn can make individual stitches difficult to see, it is especially useful to use a marker and count at the checkpoints specified in the pattern. The goal is not to alter the pattern when something looks unusual; instead, pause, recount, and compare the current shape with the intended construction.

Masterclass Part 1: Crochet the Arms as Matched Pairs

Start with dark grey yarn. Make two arms, and remember that the source specifies stuffing only the lower two-thirds of each arm. This leaves the upper area suitable for flattening and attachment.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).
4. Round 4: 15 sc.
5. Round 5: 9 sc, 3 dec (12).
6. Rounds 6–8: 12 sc (3 rounds).

Change to pink yarn.

9. Round 9: 12 sl st.
10. Round 10: Back loops only, working in the back loops of the slip stitches made in round 9: 12 sc.
11. Round 11: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9).
12. Round 12: 9 sc.
13. Round 13: Crochet only 3–4 sc. The 3 decreases in round 5 should be in the middle of the arm. Flatten the arm and crochet 4 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Make the second arm with the same sequence. Before moving on, compare both arms side by side. The useful checks here are the length of the grey section, the beginning of the pink section, the position of the decreases, and the flattened top. These visual checks do not change the stitch instructions; they simply help maintain a balanced finished toy.

Masterclass Part 2: Build the Legs and Keep Left and Right Separate

The legs are worked in grey yarn and stuffed as you go. Their round construction establishes the base proportions of the panda, so keeping the stuffing even is helpful.

1. Round 1: 8 sc into a magic ring (8).
2. Round 2: 8 inc (16).
3. Round 3: (sc, inc)*8 (24).
4. Round 4: 24 sc.
5. Round 5: 6 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc (20).
6. Round 6: 5 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc (15).
7. Rounds 7–9: 15 sc (3 rounds).

Round 10 is different for the two legs. On the left leg, crochet only 11 sc, then fasten off and cut the yarn. On the right leg, crochet 15 sc and do not cut the yarn because the body continues from the right leg.

This is an important place to stop and label the pieces mentally or physically. The difference is not an error or a variation: it is part of the construction method used to connect the legs.

Masterclass Part 3: Join the Legs and Establish the Body

Continue with grey yarn and stuff the body as you go. On the right leg, crochet 6 sc more, then change to blue yarn. Leave a tail for sewing when connecting the blue section.

1. Round 1: ch 3 and attach to the left leg where stopped; 15 sl st left leg; 3 sc front of chain; 15 sl st right leg; 3 sc back of chain; place the marker here (36), with the marker in back. If a hole appears between the legs, sew the gap with blue thread.
2. Round 2: 15 sc on the back loops of the sl st, 3 inc, 15 sc on the back loops of the sl st, 3 inc (42).
3. Rounds 3–9: 42 sc (7 rounds).

Change to pink yarn.

10. Round 10: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).
11. Round 11: Back loops only: 36 sc.
12. Round 12: 36 sc.
13. Round 13: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30).
14. Round 14: 30 sc.
15. Round 15: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).

After round 15, crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the back. This marker position will help when the arms are joined.

Masterclass Part 4: Attach the Arms and Stabilize the Neck

Round 16 is where the arms become part of the body. The exact sequence is:

16. Round 16: 4 sc, 4 sc through the first arm and body, 8 sc, 4 sc through the second arm and body, 4 sc (24).
17. Round 17: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18).
18. Round 18: 18 sc.

Check that the arms are symmetrical to the legs. If they are not, correct the stitches at this stage. After round 18, make a slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the body firmly, especially around the neck. The neck is a structural area because the finished head will be sewn onto it. Firm stuffing here helps the finished toy keep its shape without changing any of the crochet rounds.

Masterclass Part 5: Turn the Body into the Decorative Dress

Attach pink yarn to the back in the front loops of round 11, with the body turned upside down.

1. Round 1: ch 2, (2 dc in one st)*36, sl st (72).
2. Rounds 2–3: ch 2, 72 dc, sl st (2 rounds).

Change to blue yarn.

4. Round 4: (ch 2, sc in next stitch)*72 (216).

Fasten off and cut the yarn, then hide it inside the dress.

The dress has a substantial increase in stitch count because round 1 uses 2 dc in each of the 36 stitches. When checking your work, verify the stated 72 stitches rather than relying only on how wide the skirt looks.

Masterclass Part 6: Make and Place the Flowers

Make one blue flower and one pink flower. Either a magic ring or ch 2 can be used to begin the flower.

Flower sequence: (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st)*5.

Tighten the ring, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a sewing tail. Sew the blue flower to the dress in round 11. Sew the pink flower on the head near one ear.

Leaving a sewing tail is useful here because both flowers are attached rather than crocheted directly into the fabric. Keep the tails available until the flowers are firmly secured, then hide them neatly.

Masterclass Part 7: Shape the Ears and Tail

Ears

Use grey yarn and do not stuff the ears.

1. Round 1: 7 sc into a magic ring (7).
2. Round 2: 7 inc (14).
3. Round 3: 14 sc.
4. Round 4: Flatten the ear and crochet 7 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Tail

Use grey yarn and stuff the tail a little.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15).
4. Round 4: 15 sc (15).
5. Round 5: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12).

Make a slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail lightly and sew it to the back in rounds 5–7.

Masterclass Part 8: Build the Head and Its Panda Color Pattern

Start the head with white yarn and stuff as you go.

1. Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring (6).
2. Round 2: 6 inc (12).
3. Round 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18).
4. Round 4: 18 sc.

Join grey yarn. In the source, the grey stitches for this section are indicated in red in the pattern image, while the other stitches remain white.

5. Round 5: 4 sc, inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, 2 inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, inc hdc, 4 sc (28).
6. Round 6: 5 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*3, (sc, inc)*2, sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, 4 sc (38).
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, sc, sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc, sc, inc, 4 sc (48).

Cut the grey yarn and continue with white. If grey spots appear on white areas, the pattern notes that they can be embroidered over with white yarn.

Masterclass Part 9: Install the Safety Eyes Before Closing the Head

Insert the 14 mm safety eyes in the third and eighth increases in round 6. There should be 4 visible increases between them.

Because plush yarn can hide stitch definition, identify the increases carefully before inserting the eyes. Compare both sides of the head from the front. The goal is to use the specified increases rather than creating a new placement based on appearance alone.

Masterclass Part 10: Continue the Head, Join the Ears, and Close the Shape

1. Rounds 8–11: 48 sc (4 rounds).

Crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the head bottom. Join the ears with the front side toward you.

12. Round 12: 12 sc, 7 sc through the first ear and head, 10 sc, 7 sc through the second ear and head, 12 sc (48).
13. Rounds 13–14: 48 sc (2 rounds).
14. Round 15: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42).
15. Round 16: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).
16. Round 17: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30).
17. Round 18: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).
18. Round 19: (sc, dec)*8 (16).
19. Round 20: 8 dec (8).

Check ear symmetry during round 12 and correct stitches if necessary. Continue stuffing firmly, especially around the muzzle. Close the opening and hide the yarn.

Masterclass Part 11: Sculpt the Face with the Six Marked Points

The facial sculpting stage gives Mya her characteristic expression. Mark points 1–6 with pins as shown in the source image. Points 1 and 2 are located in round 7.

1. Insert a long threaded needle at point 1 and pull it out at point 3.
2. Insert the needle at point 4 and pull it out at point 2.
3. Insert it through point 1 and pull it out at point 5.
4. Insert it at point 6 and pull it out at point 2.

The thread should be under the eyes. Pull the thread ends tightly until the desired indentation appears, tie a knot, and hide the thread inside the head.

Do not rush this stage. The crochet head may already look complete, but the sculpting changes the surface contours around the eyes and muzzle. The pattern specifies the needle path, so follow that sequence rather than inventing new entry points.

Masterclass Part 12: Embroider the Muzzle and Finish the Expression

Insert the needle with black or plush thread at the bottom of the muzzle and pull it out between rounds 3 and 4. Repeat this 2–3 times, pulling tightly until the muzzle separates into two parts. Tie a knot.

Make another turn for the black middle line. For the nose, embroider with black thread between rounds 3 and 4, or glue a plastic nose. The material list gives an optional 15 mm safety nose. Pink blush may be used on the cheeks. The pattern also notes that the eyes may be embroidered or doll lashes may be glued.

These are finishing details, so keep the surrounding crochet intact. The purpose of the thread work is to define the existing muzzle shape rather than to change the head’s crochet structure.

Masterclass Part 13: Sew the Head to the Body

The final major assembly is sewing the head to the body through head rounds 8–13. Position the head carefully before making the seam permanent. Look at the panda from the front and make sure the face, arms, and legs read as one centered composition.

If a little hole remains during sewing, add more polyester fiber fill so the neck is more stable. This final stuffing adjustment can be made before completely hiding the sewing thread.

Finishing Inspection: What to Check Before Calling the Panda Complete

Body and limbs

• The two arms match in overall construction and are attached symmetrically to the legs.
• The left leg ends at 11 sc in round 10, while the right leg has 15 sc and continues into the body.
• The body reaches 42 stitches in rounds 2–9 before the pink shaping begins.
• The arms are joined in round 16.
• The body is firmly stuffed, especially around the neck.

Dress and flowers

• The dress begins from the front loops of round 11 with the body upside down.
• Dress round 1 has 72 stitches.
• Blue dress round 4 has 216 stitches.
• The blue flower is attached to the dress in round 11.
• The pink flower is attached to the head near one ear.

Head and face

• The ears are not stuffed.
• The tail is only lightly stuffed and sewn to the back in rounds 5–7.
• The 14 mm safety eyes are in the third and eighth increases of round 6.
• There are 4 visible increases between the eyes.
• The ears are checked for symmetry during round 12.
• The head is firmly stuffed, especially around the muzzle.
• The six-point sculpting sequence is completed with the thread under the eyes.
• The muzzle is separated using 2–3 passes between rounds 3 and 4.
• The head is sewn to the body through head rounds 8–13.

Troubleshooting Without Changing the Pattern

The stitch count seems wrong

Stop and recount the current round before continuing. Plush yarn can make increases and decreases hard to identify, so counting at the stated checkpoints is safer than adjusting the pattern by adding or removing rounds.

The two arms are not level

Check the arm joins against the legs at body round 16. The source specifically instructs you to check arm symmetry and correct the stitches if necessary at that stage.

The leg connection has a visible gap

If there is a hole between the legs during the body join, sew the gap with blue thread as instructed in the body section.

The head looks loose on the body

Check the neck stuffing. The body should be stuffed firmly, especially around the neck, and additional fiber fill can be added during head sewing if a little hole remains.

The face looks flatter than expected

Review the six sculpting points and needle path. The thread should pass under the eyes and be pulled until the desired indentation is achieved.

A Calm Workflow for the Whole Project

For a smoother crochet session, divide the panda into manageable work periods. First complete the two arms and compare them. Then complete the legs while keeping the left and right pieces distinct. Continue directly into the body, where the leg join, color changes, and arm attachment create the main structure. Once the body is stable, add the dress and flowers.

The head can be treated as its own focused session. Complete the white and grey shaping, place the safety eyes at the specified increases, join the ears, stuff the head firmly, and close it. Then move into sculpting and embroidery. Finally, sew the head to the body and inspect the completed panda from several angles.

This workflow does not change the original pattern order. It simply gives each construction stage a clear stopping point, making it easier to notice a counting or symmetry issue before it becomes hidden by later assembly.

Final Beginner-Friendly Checklist

1. Prepare the 4.00 mm hook, four specified Himalaya Dolphin Baby colors, YarnArt Jeans 53, 14 mm safety eyes, optional 15 mm safety nose, and polyester fiber fill.
2. Remember that the pattern uses US terminology.
3. Complete both arms and stuff only the lower two-thirds.
4. Complete the legs, keeping the left-leg and right-leg round-10 instructions separate.
5. Join the legs and begin the body with the specified chain and slip-stitch connection.
6. Follow the 42-stitch body section before changing to pink.
7. Join the arms in round 16 and verify symmetry.
8. Finish the body and leave the long sewing tail.
9. Add the dress from the front loops of round 11.
10. Make the blue and pink flowers and sew them in their specified positions.
11. Make unstuffed ears and a lightly stuffed tail.
12. Build the head and preserve the specified grey-and-white stitch placement.
13. Insert the 14 mm safety eyes in the third and eighth increases of round 6.
14. Join the ears in round 12 and check symmetry.
15. Stuff the head firmly, especially around the muzzle.
16. Complete the six-point facial sculpting.
17. Embroider the muzzle and nose details as specified.
18. Sew the head to the body through head rounds 8–13.
19. Stabilize the neck with additional fiber fill if a small hole remains.
20. Hide all remaining yarn ends and make the final visual inspection.

Conclusion

Mya the Plush Panda brings together many of the techniques that make plush crochet satisfying: increases that build volume, decreases that refine silhouettes, color changes that create the panda markings and clothing, direct attachment of the arms, decorative flowers, shaped ears, a softly stuffed tail, and facial sculpting that transforms a simple crocheted head into an expressive character.

The most reliable approach is to respect the stitch counts and construction checkpoints exactly as written. When a piece looks slightly different from what you expected, check the count, stuffing, placement, and symmetry before changing anything. That habit is especially valuable with plush yarn because its texture can hide individual stitches and make small counting mistakes harder to see.

With the specified materials, 4.00 mm hook, US terminology, original color sequence, exact rounds, and careful assembly, the project finishes as a soft panda measuring approximately 26–28 cm (10–11 inches) tall. Once the final sewing, muzzle embroidery, floral details, and facial shaping are complete, your Mya the Plush Panda is ready.