POPO the Panda is a plush-style amigurumi designed around a simple but carefully coordinated collection of crochet pieces. The finished character has a rounded white head, black facial areas, black ears, black arms and feet, pink cheeks, and a small watermelon purse. What makes the project especially appealing is the way a relatively small number of crochet components come together to create a very expressive finished toy.
This fourth guide approaches the project as a stitch-checkpoint and assembly workshop. Instead of simply presenting the pattern as one uninterrupted sequence, it explains where the important structural transitions occur, what stitch count should be expected at each major stage, and which finishing details should be checked before moving forward.
The technical instructions are based on the supplied POPO The Panda 2022 source. The original pattern specifies a 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn, while allowing the hook size to vary according to the yarn brand. The yarn listed is Himalaya Dolphin Baby, with Bernat Blanket, Parfait, and Yarn Art given as examples of alternatives, at 120m for 100g. The source also specifies the safety-eye size, facial placement, stuffing directions, sewing locations, and the exact construction of the legs, body, ears, arms, and watermelon purse. fileciteturn3file1îˆ
The Project at a Glance
Before beginning, it is useful to know what the finished project is made from. There are five principal construction areas: the head, the body, the ears, the arms, and the watermelon purse. Facial embroidery and safety eyes are added to the head, while the separate appendages are attached during finishing.
- Head: crocheted in white with black facial colorwork.
- Face: 12mm safety eyes, pink cheeks, a central nose, white eye lines, and an embroidered black mouth.
- Body: built from two legs and continued upward after joining them with ch 3 in white.
- Ears: black, crocheted separately, left unstuffed, and sewn between R3-6 on the head.
- Arms: black, crocheted separately, left unstuffed, and sewn at R15 of the body.
- Watermelon purse: red, cream, and green, finished with a green stripe.
The original source does not provide a finished-size measurement or a gauge. Those values should therefore not be substituted with estimates. The final size depends on the yarn and hook combination used.
Materials and Pattern Language
The material list supplied with the pattern includes a 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn or another size depending on the yarn brand, Himalaya Dolphin Baby or the listed alternatives, a stitch marker, scissors, a needle and thread, a larger needle for yarn, embroidery thread, and safety eyes. fileciteturn2file9îˆ
Abbreviations
- Mr – magic ring, or make ch 2 and 6sc on the first ch.
- Sc – single crochet.
- Inc – increase.
- Dec – invisible decrease.
- (…)*n – repeat the instructions in brackets n times.
- [color] – change the color.
- Slst – slip stitch.
- Ch – chain.
- Dc – double crochet.
- Hdc – half double crochet.
- Tr – treble crochet.
- BLO – back loop only.
- FLO – front loop only.
Because the project uses plush yarn, stitch markers and regular counting are particularly useful. The fabric can hide individual loops, so the numerical checkpoints below are more reliable than trying to judge progress by appearance alone.
Head Checkpoints: Build the Main Character Shape
The head is the most detailed component in the project. Its first rounds expand from the magic ring, the middle rounds establish the widest section, and the later rounds decrease to close the shape. The black sections in R9-R12 form the panda’s facial markings.
Head – White
- Mr 8sc (8)
- 8inc (16)
- (sc, inc)*8 (24)
- (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
- 2sc, inc (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)
- (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
- 42sc (42)
- 42sc (42)
- 16sc, black 3sc, white 4sc, black 3sc, white 16sc (42)
- 15sc, black 4sc, white 4sc, black 4sc, white 15sc (42)
- 10sc, inc, 3-hdc into one stitch, 2sc, black 5sc, white 4sc, black 5sc, white 2sc, 3-hdc into one stitch, inc, 10sc (48)
- 18c, black 3sc, white 6sc, black 3sc, white 18sc (48)
- 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc (42)
- (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
- 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)
- (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
- sc, dec, (2sc, dec)*5, sc (18)
Fasten off and cut the yarn after R17. The source then instructs the maker to stuff the head chubby and add some extra stuffing at the cheeks. This is an important shaping checkpoint because the cheek fullness contributes to the rounded facial appearance.
Head Stitch-Count Map
The head progresses through these principal counts: 8, 16, 24, 30, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 48, 48, 42, 36, 30, 24, and 18.
When using plush yarn, write the count at the end of each round if necessary. The jump to 48 stitches in R11 is especially useful as a checkpoint because the following round remains at 48 before the decrease sequence begins.
One notation should remain exactly as supplied: R12 begins with “18c.†The source does not provide a separate explanation for that notation, so it should not be silently interpreted or replaced with a guessed instruction.
Face Placement: A Precision Check Before Closing the Project
The facial details are what turn the crocheted head into the recognizable POPO character. This stage is best handled as a placement exercise rather than something done by eye alone.
- Safety eyes: 12mm.
- Eye position: between R10-11.
- Eye spacing: 6 stitches apart.
- Eye lines: made with worsted weight white yarn.
- Cheeks: embroidered with pink yarn.
- Nose: between R11-12 at the center of the face.
- Mouth: embroidered using worsted weight black yarn.
Complete this checkpoint before moving on to final assembly. If the eyes are placed correctly according to the specified rounds and spacing, the remaining facial details can be positioned around them. Avoid changing the six-stitch eye spacing to compensate for a visual preference because the placement is part of the supplied pattern.
Leg-to-Body Construction: The Critical Join
The body begins with two black legs. This is one of the most important structural points in the pattern because the two pieces do not finish in exactly the same way.
First Leg
- Mr 5sc (5)
- 5inc (10)
- 10sc (10)
- 10sc (10)
Fasten off and cut the yarn.
Second Leg
Make the second leg using the same four rounds, but do not cut the yarn. Continue with ch 3 in white and join the first leg.
This distinction is essential. The second leg must remain connected because the next stage uses the attached yarn to create the joining chain and begin the body.
Body Rounds
- 10sc + 3sc (first side of the chains) + 10sc + 3sc (other side of the chains) (26)
- (3sc, inc)*6, 2sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 32sc (32)
- 7sc, dec, (14sc, dec), 7sc (30)
- Black 30sc (30)
- (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
- (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew the body to the head. The original source specifically says to stuff the body a lot. fileciteturn3file9îˆ
Body Checkpoints
- R5: 26 stitches.
- R6: 32 stitches.
- R7-R12: 32 stitches.
- R13: 30 stitches.
- R14: Black 30sc (30).
- R15: 24 stitches.
- R16: 18 stitches.
The long body tail is not optional if you intend to follow the supplied sewing method. Leave it after R16 so it is available for attaching the body to the head.
Symmetry Check Before Sewing the Body
Before making the body-to-head seam permanent, hold the two pieces together and check the orientation of the front. This is a visual check only; the technical instructions should remain unchanged. The panda’s face should be oriented above the white torso, with the two black feet aligned beneath it.
If the body appears rotated, correct its orientation before sewing. Do not add or remove rounds to change the proportions. The pattern’s proportions are already established by the listed counts.
Ears: Small Pieces With a Big Visual Effect
The ears are short and quick to crochet, but their placement changes the overall silhouette of the panda. They are worked in black.
Ears – Black
- Mr 6sc (6)
- 6inc (12)
- 12sc (12)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing between R3-6 on the head.
The source explicitly states that the ears are not stuffed. fileciteturn2file8îˆ Keep them soft rather than adding filling that could make them overly rigid.
Ear Placement Tip
Before tightening the sewing stitches, position each ear loosely and compare both sides. Because the head is rounded, a small change in angle can make one ear appear higher than the other. Use the specified R3-6 area as the attachment zone and focus on matching the orientation of the two pieces.
Arms: Repeatable Construction and Attachment
The arms use a compact tubular construction. Both arms should be worked using the same sequence so their size remains consistent.
Arms – Black
- Mr 4sc (4)
- 4inc (8)
- 8sc (8)
- 8sc (8)
- 8sc (8)
- 8sc (8)
- 8sc (8)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing at R15 of the body.
The arms are not stuffed. This is another important distinction between the central body pieces and the smaller appendages. The original pattern specifically says not to stuff the arms. fileciteturn2file8îˆ
Watermelon Purse: The Final Color Sequence
The watermelon purse is a small accessory, but it introduces three strong colors and therefore deserves its own checkpoint. The sequence begins with red, changes to cream in R4, and then changes to green in R5.
Watermelon Purse – Red
- Mr 5sc (5)
- 5inc (10)
- 10sc (10)
- Cream (sc, inc)*5 (15)
- Green (4sc, inc)*3 (18)
Use the long yarn tail to sew the purse in place. The same green yarn is used to make the purse stripe. The designer says that the purse can be stuffed, but the sample was not stuffed. fileciteturn3file1îˆ
Color-Change Checkpoints
The project uses color changes in two visually important areas: the panda’s facial markings and the watermelon purse. With plush yarn, it can be difficult to see the exact point where one color begins and another ends, so keep the written round sequence beside your work.
For the head, the black sections begin in R9 and continue through the specified facial colorwork in R10-R12. The body contains the explicit Black 30sc instruction in R14. The purse changes from its red beginning to cream in R4 and green in R5.
Do not create additional color rounds simply to make a section appear more symmetrical. The correct approach is to follow the written sequence and use the reference photographs to understand the intended overall appearance.
Stuffing Check: What Gets Filled and What Stays Soft?
POPO’s shape depends on different stuffing treatments for different components.
- Head: stuff chubby and add extra stuffing at the cheeks.
- Body: stuff a lot.
- Ears: do not stuff.
- Arms: do not stuff.
- Watermelon purse: stuffing is optional; the sample was not stuffed.
This combination produces the plush silhouette visible in the finished reference. The head and body carry the main volume, while the ears and arms remain flexible. The purse can remain flatter when made without stuffing.
Assembly Sequence: A Reliable Finishing Order
Assembly becomes easier when the sewing tasks are handled in a logical order. The following order does not change the original construction; it simply groups the existing finishing instructions into practical checkpoints.
- Complete the head through R17 and fasten off.
- Stuff the head chubby and add extra filling to the cheeks.
- Install the 12mm safety eyes between R10-11, 6 stitches apart.
- Add the white eye lines, pink cheeks, central nose, and black embroidered mouth.
- Complete both legs.
- Fasten off the first leg.
- Keep the second leg attached and make ch 3 in white to join the legs.
- Complete the body through R16.
- Stuff the body a lot.
- Use the long body tail to sew the body to the head.
- Make the ears and leave them unstuffed.
- Sew the ears between R3-6 on the head.
- Make the arms and leave them unstuffed.
- Sew the arms at R15 of the body.
- Make the watermelon purse through R5.
- Add the green stripe using the same green yarn.
- Sew the purse into place using the long yarn tail.
Troubleshooting Without Changing the Pattern
The Head Count Is Wrong
Check the last completed round rather than modifying the next one. The head’s major progression is 8, 16, 24, 30, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 48, 48, 42, 36, 30, 24, and 18.
The Face Looks Too High or Too Low
Return to the fixed placement instructions. The 12mm safety eyes belong between R10-11, six stitches apart. The nose belongs between R11-12 at the center. These references should be established before adding the embroidered mouth and cheeks.
The Body Looks Too Small
Check whether the body was stuffed according to the original instruction. The source says to stuff the body a lot. Also confirm that the body reached 32 stitches in R6 and remained at 32 through R12.
The Two Legs Do Not Join Correctly
Confirm that the first leg was fastened off and the second leg remained attached. The second leg must continue with ch 3 in white before joining the first leg.
The Ears Are Too Firm
Do not add stuffing. The source says the ears are not stuffed.
The Arms Are Too Bulky
Review the stuffing. The arms are also intended to remain unstuffed.
The Watermelon Purse Is Too Full
Stuffing is optional, and the photographed sample was not stuffed. Leaving it unstuffed is consistent with the supplied sample.
Final Stitch Checkpoints
Before beginning the final sewing, use this compact checklist to verify the principal counts:
- Head: R1 = 8, R2 = 16, R3 = 24, R4 = 30, R5 = 36, R6-R10 = 42, R11-R12 = 48, R13 = 42, R14 = 36, R15 = 30, R16 = 24, R17 = 18.
- First and second legs: R1 = 5, R2 = 10, R3 = 10, R4 = 10.
- Body: R5 = 26, R6 = 32, R7-R12 = 32, R13 = 30, R14 = 30, R15 = 24, R16 = 18.
- Ears: 6, 12, 12.
- Arms: 4, 8, then 8 through R7.
- Watermelon purse: 5, 10, 10, 15, 18.
These counts are useful checkpoints, not replacements for the complete round instructions. Special colorwork and the specific instructions inside individual rounds should always be followed exactly.
Final Assembly Checklist
- Head completed through R17.
- Head stuffed chubby.
- Extra stuffing added at the cheeks.
- 12mm safety eyes installed between R10-11.
- Six stitches maintained between the eyes.
- White eye lines added with worsted weight white yarn.
- Pink cheeks embroidered.
- Nose placed between R11-12 at the center.
- Black embroidered mouth completed.
- Two legs completed.
- First leg fastened off.
- Second leg kept attached for the ch 3 white joining step.
- Body completed through R16.
- Body stuffed a lot.
- Long body tail retained for sewing.
- Ears completed and left unstuffed.
- Ears sewn between R3-6 on the head.
- Arms completed and left unstuffed.
- Arms sewn at R15 of the body.
- Watermelon purse completed through R5.
- Green stripe added.
- Purse sewn with the long yarn tail.
Frequently Asked Questions
What crochet hook size does the pattern use?
The source recommends a 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn, while noting that another size may depend on the yarn brand.
Which yarn is listed?
The source lists Himalaya Dolphin Baby and gives Bernat Blanket, Parfait, and Yarn Art as examples of alternatives. The stated specification is 120m for 100g.
What size are the safety eyes?
The pattern specifies 12mm safety eyes.
Where should the eyes be placed?
They should be inserted between R10-11, with 6 stitches apart.
Where does the nose go?
The nose is placed between R11-12 at the center of the face.
Should the head be heavily stuffed?
The source says to stuff the head chubby and add some extra stuffing at the cheeks.
How should the body be stuffed?
The original instruction says to stuff the body a lot.
Should the ears be stuffed?
No. The ears are intentionally left unstuffed.
Should the arms be stuffed?
No. The arms are also intentionally left unstuffed.
Where are the ears sewn?
The ears are sewn between R3-6 on the head.
Where are the arms sewn?
The arms are sewn at R15 of the body.
Can the watermelon purse be stuffed?
Yes. Stuffing is optional, although the sample was not stuffed.
The Finished POPO the Panda
POPO’s final appearance comes from careful coordination rather than complicated construction. The head establishes the expression, the body creates the rounded plush shape, and the unstuffed ears and arms give the character its soft silhouette. The watermelon purse then introduces the red, cream, and green accent visible in the finished reference.
The best way to approach this project is to treat every important number as a checkpoint. Count the head rounds, verify the body after the leg join, keep the eye placement precise, and confirm the sewing locations before attaching the smaller pieces. This approach is especially useful with plush yarn, where individual stitches can disappear into the texture.
Most importantly, avoid correcting the pattern by inventing extra rounds, changing stitch counts, or moving attachment points. If something looks different from the reference, first check the written round sequence, stitch count, color placement, stuffing amount, and sewing position. Those are the elements that determine the intended result.
Once the final seam is finished and the watermelon purse is attached, the separate crochet components become one cohesive panda character. The result is a soft, expressive amigurumi with a distinctive accessory and a clear handmade personality.
Pattern credit: POPO The Panda 2022, with the supplied source crediting Instagram @rin.meow21. The source also includes the designer’s own request regarding translation, selling, and free sharing of the pattern. Respect the original designer’s stated terms when publishing or distributing pattern material.