Making Mya the Plush Panda is a rewarding crochet project that combines several classic amigurumi techniques into one charming finished toy. The project includes separate arms, legs, a shaped body, a dress, flowers, ears, a tail, and a carefully sculpted head. Because the construction involves joining pieces and shaping the face, paying attention to stitch counts and placement is especially important.
This guide presents the project as a construction-focused workshop. Instead of simply moving from one round to another, the goal is to help you understand what each major component is doing, where the important checkpoints occur, and how the individual pieces eventually come together.
The original pattern uses US crochet terminology and is rated medium difficulty. It assumes familiarity with basic crochet stitches rather than teaching crochet from the beginning. The finished panda is approximately 26–28 cm (10–11″) tall.
Materials and Tools
Before beginning, prepare all of the materials listed in the original pattern. Keeping the colors and materials organized from the beginning makes the construction process much easier.
- Plush yarn, 100g/120m:
- Dark grey – Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80320
- White – Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80301
- Pink – Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80303
- Blue – Himalaya Dolphin Baby 80306
- Black thread for embroidering the muzzle, using YarnArt Jeans 53.
- 14 mm safety eyes.
- 15 mm safety nose, optional.
- 4.00 mm crochet hook.
- Polyester fiber fill for stuffing.
The pattern uses the following abbreviations: st for stitch, ch for chain, sl st for slip stitch, sc for single crochet, hdc for half double crochet, dc for double crochet, inc for increase, and dec for decrease. When the pattern gives an instruction such as (sc, inc)*8, repeat the stitches inside the brackets eight times.
Construction Strategy Before You Start
Mya is easiest to manage when you think of the project as a collection of structural sections rather than one continuous project. The arms and legs establish the proportions of the panda. The body connects those parts and creates the foundation for the dress. The ears and tail are separate pieces. The head contains the most detailed shaping, including the grey-and-white face pattern, eye placement, ear attachment, sculpting, and muzzle embroidery.
For the best result, count each round carefully. Plush yarn can make individual stitches harder to see than standard yarn, so using a stitch marker and feeling the top of each stitch with the hook can be helpful.
Building the Arms
The panda has two arms. Begin with dark grey yarn and make both arms according to the same instructions. Only the lower two-thirds of each arm should be stuffed. This keeps the upper portion flexible enough for joining and closing.
Start with 6 sc into a magic ring. Round 1 contains 6 stitches. Round 2 is 6 inc, producing 12 stitches. In round 3, work (3 sc, inc)*3 for a total of 15 stitches.
Round 4 contains 15 sc. In round 5, work 9 sc followed by 3 dec, bringing the count to 12 stitches. Rounds 6–8 are each worked with 12 sc, giving three rounds at the same stitch count.
Change to pink yarn for round 9. Work 12 sl st. In round 10, work 12 sc through the back loops only, specifically through the back loops of the slip stitches made in round 9.
Round 11 is (2 sc, dec)*3 for 9 stitches. Round 12 is 9 sc.
The closing instructions are particularly important. In round 13, crochet only 3–4 sc. The three decreases from round 5 should sit in the middle of the arm. Flatten the arm and crochet 4 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.
Constructing the Legs
The legs are worked in dark grey yarn and should be stuffed as you go. Begin each leg with 8 sc into a magic ring.
Round 1 contains 8 stitches. Round 2 is 8 inc, producing 16 stitches. Round 3 is (sc, inc)*8 for 24 stitches. Round 4 is 24 sc.
Round 5 is worked as 6 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc, producing 20 stitches. Round 6 is 5 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc, producing 15 stitches. Rounds 7–9 are each 15 sc.
There is an important difference between the left and right legs in round 10. For the left leg, work only 11 sc, then fasten off and cut the yarn. For the right leg, work 15 sc and do not cut the yarn, because the right leg continues directly into the body construction.
Joining the Legs and Starting the Body
The body continues with grey yarn. Stuff the body as you go. On the right leg, crochet 6 sc more before changing to blue yarn. Leave a yarn tail for sewing when connecting the blue section.
Round 1 begins with ch 3. Attach the chain to the left leg where you stopped. Work 15 sl st around the left leg, then 3 sc across the front of the chain. Continue with 15 sl st around the right leg, followed by 3 sc along the back of the chain. Place the marker here, in the back. The resulting stitch count is 36.
If a hole appears between the legs, sew the gap closed using blue thread.
For round 2, work 15 sc through the back loops of the slip stitches, then 3 inc, followed by 15 sc through the back loops of the slip stitches and another 3 inc. The resulting stitch count is 42.
Rounds 3–9 are each worked with 42 sc. This creates the main cylindrical section of the body.
Shaping the Upper Body
Change to pink yarn for round 10. Work (5 sc, dec)*6, giving 36 stitches.
Round 11 is worked in the back loops only with 36 sc. Round 12 is 36 sc.
Round 13 is (4 sc, dec)*6 for 30 stitches. Round 14 is 30 sc.
Round 15 is (3 sc, dec)*6 for 24 stitches.
Before joining the arms, crochet 1–2 additional sc if necessary so that the marker sits exactly in the middle of the back. This is a useful checkpoint because the position of the arms needs to be balanced against the legs.
Joining the Arms to the Body
Round 16 is the main arm-joining round. Work 4 sc, then 4 sc through the first arm and the body, followed by 8 sc, then 4 sc through the second arm and the body, and finish with 4 sc. The stitch count remains 24.
At this stage, stop and examine the panda from the front. The arms should look symmetrical in relation to the legs. If they do not, correct the stitch placement before continuing. This checkpoint is much easier to fix now than after the body has been completed.
Round 17 is (2 sc, dec)*6 for 18 stitches. Round 18 is 18 sc.
Slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn while leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly, paying particular attention to the neck area.
Creating the Dress
The dress is attached to the front loops of round 11. Turn the body upside down before beginning the dress. Attach pink yarn to the back in the front loops of round 11.
Round 1 begins with ch 2, followed by (2 dc in one st)*36, then a sl st. This produces 72 stitches.
Rounds 2–3 are each ch 2, 72 dc, sl st.
Change to blue yarn for round 4. Work (ch 2, sc in next stitch)*72. The resulting count is 216. Fasten off and cut the yarn, then hide the end inside the dress.
Adding the Flowers
Make two flowers: one blue and one pink. For each flower, begin with a magic ring or ch 2.
Work (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st)*5. Tighten the ring and fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.
Sew the blue flower to the dress in round 11. Sew the pink flower onto the head near one ear.
Ears and Tail
The ears are made with grey yarn and are not stuffed. Begin with 7 sc into a magic ring. Round 2 is 7 inc for 14 stitches. Round 3 is 14 sc.
For round 4, flatten the ear and crochet 7 sc through both sides. Fasten off and cut the yarn.
The tail is also made with grey yarn. It should receive only a small amount of stuffing. Begin with 6 sc into a magic ring. Round 2 is 6 inc for 12 stitches. Round 3 is (3 sc, inc)*3 for 15 stitches. Round 4 is 15 sc.
Round 5 is (3 sc, dec)*3 for 12 stitches. Slip stitch, fasten off, and cut the yarn while leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail lightly and sew it onto the back in rounds 5–7.
Constructing the Panda Head
The head is the most visually detailed component of the project. Begin with white yarn and stuff as you go.
Round 1 is 6 sc into a magic ring. Round 2 is 6 inc for 12 stitches. Round 3 is (sc, inc)*6 for 18 stitches. Round 4 is 18 sc.
Join grey yarn for round 5. The original pattern indicates the grey stitches visually, while the remaining stitches are white. Round 5 is 4 sc, inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, 2 inc hdc, 3 inc hdc, inc hdc, 4 sc, for 28 stitches.
Round 6 is 5 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*3, (sc, inc)*2, sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, 4 sc, for 38 stitches.
Round 7 is 5 sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, sc, sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc, sc, inc, 4 sc, for 48 stitches.
Cut the grey yarn and continue with white. The original pattern notes that grey spots appearing on white areas can be embroidered over with white yarn.
Eye Placement and Head Shaping
Insert the 14 mm safety eyes in the third and eighth increases of round 6. There are 4 visible increases between them.
Rounds 8–11 are each 48 sc. Crochet 1–2 sc more so the marker is exactly in the middle of the head bottom.
Joining the Ears to the Head
Join the ears with the front side facing toward you.
Round 12 is 12 sc, 7 sc through the first ear and head, 10 sc, 7 sc through the second ear and head, 12 sc (48).
Check the ear symmetry and correct the stitches if necessary.
Rounds 13–14 are each 48 sc.
Closing and Stuffing the Head
Round 15 is 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42).
Round 16 is (5 sc, dec)*6 (36).
Round 17 is 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30).
Round 18 is (3 sc, dec)*6 (24).
Round 19 is (sc, dec)*8 (16).
Round 20 is 8 dec (8).
Stuff the head firmly, especially the muzzle. Close the opening and hide the yarn.
Face Sculpting
Mark points 1–6 with pins as shown in the original pattern photograph. Points 1 and 2 are in round 7.
Insert a long threaded needle at point 1 and pull it out at point 3. Insert it into point 4 and pull it out at point 2. Insert it through point 1 and pull it out at point 5. Insert it into point 6 and pull it out at point 2.
The thread should be under the eyes. Pull the thread ends tightly until the desired indentation is achieved, tie a knot, and hide the thread inside the head.
Embroidering the Muzzle and Nose
Insert the needle with black or plush thread at the bottom of the muzzle and pull it out between rounds 3 and 4. Do this 2–3 times, pulling tightly until the muzzle separates into two parts. Tie a knot and make another turn for the black middle line.
With black thread, embroider the nose between rounds 3 and 4, or glue a plastic nose. Color the cheeks with pink blush. The eyes may also be embroidered or doll lashes may be glued on.
Final Head-to-Body Assembly
Sew the head to the body through head rounds 8–13. While sewing, if a small hole remains, add more fiberfill so the neck is more stable.
Keep checking the alignment while sewing. The head should remain centered, the ears should be balanced, and the arms and legs should maintain their intended symmetry.
Construction Checkpoints
- Both arms match in size and shaping.
- The arms are stuffed only in the lower two-thirds.
- The left leg stops after 11 sc in round 10.
- The right leg continues with 15 sc and then 6 additional sc before the body.
- The body reaches 42 stitches in round 2 and remains at 42 through round 9.
- The arms are checked for symmetry after round 16.
- The dress begins in the front loops of round 11.
- The blue flower is sewn to the dress in round 11.
- The pink flower is sewn to the head near one ear.
- The tail is sewn to the back in rounds 5–7.
- The 14 mm safety eyes are placed according to round 6.
- The ears are checked for symmetry after joining.
- The muzzle is firmly stuffed and sculpted.
- The head is securely sewn to the body.
Common Construction Problems
A Hole Appears Between the Legs
Sew the gap with blue thread as instructed before continuing with the body.
The Arms Are Not Symmetrical
Check their position during round 16. Correct the stitches before continuing if necessary.
The Ears Are Uneven
Inspect their position immediately after round 12 and correct the stitch placement before continuing.
The Neck Is Not Stable
Stuff the body firmly, especially around the neck. During final sewing, add more fiberfill if a small hole remains.
Finishing Checklist
- Arms securely closed and attached.
- Legs securely connected.
- Body firmly stuffed.
- Dress completed in pink and blue.
- Flowers sewn in their specified positions.
- Ears securely attached.
- Tail lightly stuffed and sewn to rounds 5–7.
- Safety eyes positioned correctly.
- Face sculpted.
- Muzzle embroidered.
- Nose completed.
- Head firmly stuffed.
- Head securely sewn to the body.
- All yarn tails hidden.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size is the finished panda?
The finished panda is approximately 26–28 cm (10–11″) tall.
What hook size is used?
The pattern uses a 4.00 mm crochet hook.
Which terminology does the pattern use?
The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
Are the ears stuffed?
No. The ears are not stuffed.
How much stuffing goes into the tail?
The tail is stuffed lightly.
Is the safety nose mandatory?
No. The 15 mm safety nose is optional. The nose can also be embroidered.
Where is the tail attached?
The tail is sewn onto the back in rounds 5–7.
Final Thoughts
Mya the Plush Panda is a construction-focused amigurumi project in which accurate counting and careful assembly are essential. The legs establish the body position, the arms are joined at a specific point, and the head requires precise eye and ear placement followed by sculpting and embroidery.
Working through the project in sections makes the construction much easier to control. Take time at each checkpoint, especially before joining the arms, ears, and head. With the pieces correctly aligned and the stuffing distributed firmly, the finished panda will have the soft, rounded shape intended by the pattern.
Once the final sewing and facial details are complete, the pink and blue dress and flowers give Mya her finished character and appearance.