POPO the Panda Crochet Amigurumi: A Beginner-Friendly Masterclass for Shaping, Details and Finishing

There is something especially satisfying about a crochet amigurumi that gets most of its personality from a few carefully controlled details. POPO the Panda is a good example. The design uses a soft white plush body, black panda markings, rounded ears and limbs, embroidered facial features, and a small watermelon purse. The finished result looks detailed, but the construction is divided into compact sections that can be checked one at a time.

This fifth guide presents the supplied POPO The Panda 2022 pattern as a practical finishing-focused workshop. The goal is to make the project easier to follow without changing the original technical information. The round numbers, stitch counts, colors, safety-eye size, placement instructions, stuffing directions, and attachment points remain tied to the supplied source. Where the source does not state a finished measurement or gauge, no replacement value is invented.

The project is designed for chunky yarn. The source recommends a 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn, while noting that the hook size can depend on the yarn brand. The listed yarn is Himalaya Dolphin Baby, with Bernat Blanket, Parfait, and Yarn Art given as examples, at 120m for 100g. The other listed supplies include a stitch marker, scissors, a needle and thread, a larger needle for yarn, embroidery thread, and safety eyes. fileciteturn5file2

What Makes This Panda Work?

The character is built from five main crochet areas: a detailed head, a body formed from two legs, two separate ears, two separate arms, and a watermelon purse. The face is not added as a single applique. Instead, black colorwork is incorporated into the head rounds, followed by safety eyes and embroidered details. That means the head deserves careful counting before any sewing begins.

The body has a different construction logic. It starts with the black feet, and the second leg remains attached while the maker creates ch 3 in white and joins the first leg. The torso then grows from that joined foundation. The ears and arms are much simpler, but their sewing positions are important because they determine the panda’s silhouette.

• Head: white with black facial colorwork.
• Eyes: 12mm safety eyes, positioned between R10-11 and 6 stitches apart.
• Nose: between R11-12 at the center of the face.
• Body: formed from two black legs and continued after a ch 3 white join.
• Ears: black, unstuffed, sewn between R3-6 on the head.
• Arms: black, unstuffed, sewn at R15 of the body.
• Purse: red, cream, and green, ending at 18 stitches.

Materials, Abbreviations and a Good Starting Setup

Materials

• 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn, or another size depending on the yarn brand.
• Himalaya Dolphin Baby or the listed alternatives such as Bernat Blanket, Parfait, and Yarn Art.
• Yarn specification stated by the source: 120m for 100g.
• Stitch marker.
• Scissors.
• Needle and thread.
• A larger needle for yarn.
• Embroidery thread.
• Safety eyes.

Abbreviations

• Mr – magic ring, or make ch 2 and 6sc on the first ch.
• Sc – single crochet.
• Inc – increase.
• Dec – invisible decrease.
• (…)*n – repeat the instructions in braces n times.
• [color] – change the color.
• Slst – slip stitch.
• Ch – chain.
• Dc – double crochet.
• Hdc – half double crochet.
• Tr – treble crochet.
• BLO – back loop only.
• FLO – front loop only.

Plush yarn can make counting more difficult than smooth yarn because individual stitches are visually less distinct. A stitch marker and a written round checklist are therefore useful, especially around increases, decreases, and color changes. The safest habit is to confirm the numerical count at the end of every important round rather than trying to judge the size of a piece by sight.

Head Masterclass: Build the Expression Into the Crochet

The head is the longest and most visually important section. It begins with a small magic ring, expands steadily, reaches 48 stitches, and then decreases toward the final 18 stitches. The black sections in R9-R12 establish the panda’s facial markings while the white stitches preserve the rounded muzzle area.

Head – White

1. Mr 8sc (8)
2. 8inc (16)
3. (sc, inc)*8 (24)
4. (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
5. 2sc, inc (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)
6. (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
7. 42sc (42)
8. 42sc (42)
9. 16sc, black 3sc, white 4sc, black 3sc, white 16sc (42)
10. 15sc, black 4sc, white 4sc, black 4sc, white 15sc (42)
11. 10sc, inc, 3-hdc into one stitch, 2sc, black 5sc, white 4sc, black 5sc, white 2sc, 3-hdc into one stitch, inc, 10sc (48)
12. 18c, black 3sc, white 6sc, black 3sc, white 18sc (48)
13. 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc (42)
14. (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
15. 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)
16. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
17. sc, dec, (2sc, dec)*5, sc (18)

Fasten off and cut the yarn after R17. The source instructs the maker to stuff the head chubby and add some extra stuffing at the cheeks. fileciteturn5file0

Head Count Check

The numerical progression is a useful map for the entire head:

• R1: 8
• R2: 16
• R3: 24
• R4: 30
• R5: 36
• R6-R10: 42
• R11-R12: 48
• R13: 42
• R14: 36
• R15: 30
• R16: 24
• R17: 18

The transition to 48 stitches in R11 is an especially useful checkpoint. After R12, the decrease sequence begins. If a later count is wrong, it is usually more efficient to locate the first round where the count changed than to keep crocheting and hope the difference disappears.

One notation should remain exactly as written: R12 begins with “18c.” The supplied source does not separately define that notation in the abbreviation list, so it should not be silently converted into a different instruction.

Face Placement: Treat the Details as Measurements

Once the head is crocheted and stuffed, the facial details should be placed according to the source rather than positioned randomly by visual preference.

• Safety eyes: 12mm.
• Eye position: between R10-11.
• Eye spacing: 6 stitches apart.
• Eye lines: worsted weight white yarn.
• Cheeks: embroidered with pink yarn.
• Nose: between R11-12 at the center.
• Mouth: embroidered with worsted weight black yarn.

These details work together. The eye spacing establishes the facial width, the nose anchors the center, and the cheeks add softness around the lower face. Because the head is plush and rounded, it helps to check both eyes before permanently securing them.

Body Construction: The Leg Join Is the Key Moment

The body is not started as a flat base. It grows from two individual black legs. This is the most important construction transition in the torso because the first and second legs are treated differently.

First Leg

1. Mr 5sc (5)
2. 5inc (10)
3. 10sc (10)
4. 10sc (10)

Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Second Leg

Make another leg using the same rounds, but do not cut off the yarn. Continue by making ch 3 in white and join the first leg. The source then continues the body from the joined foundation. fileciteturn5file0

Body Rounds

5. 10sc + 3sc (first side of the chains) + 10sc + 3sc (other side of the chains) (26)
6. (3sc, inc)*6, 2sc (32)
7. 32sc (32)
8. 32sc (32)
9. 32sc (32)
10. 32sc (32)
11. 32sc (32)
12. 32sc (32)
13. 7sc, dec, (14sc, dec), 7sc (30)
14. Black 30sc (30)
15. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
16. (2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew the body to the head. The source specifically instructs: “Please stuff the body a lot!” fileciteturn5file3

Body Progression

There are several easy-to-check milestones in the torso. R5 ends at 26 stitches. R6 reaches 32, and R7-R12 stay at 32. R13 decreases to 30. R14 is Black 30sc. R15 decreases to 24, and R16 decreases to 18.

Keeping this progression visible while working is helpful because the long middle section of 32 stitches can otherwise become easy to lose track of when using fluffy yarn.

Stuffing Strategy: Volume Where the Pattern Needs It

The source gives different stuffing instructions for the major components, and these differences matter to the finished silhouette.

• Head: stuff chubby and add extra stuffing at the cheeks.
• Body: stuff a lot.
• Ears: do not stuff.
• Arms: do not stuff.
• Watermelon purse: may be stuffed, but the sample was not stuffed.

The head and body provide the main plush volume. The smaller black pieces are deliberately left soft. If an ear or arm looks unusually rigid, check the stuffing before changing its shape or adding extra crochet rounds.

Ears: Match the Pair Before Sewing

The ears are simple three-round pieces, but they frame the top of the finished head, so symmetry matters during assembly.

Ears – Black

1. Mr 6sc (6)
2. 6inc (12)
3. 12sc (12)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing between R3-6 on the head. The source states that the ears are not stuffed. fileciteturn5file1

Before tightening the sewing, place both ears temporarily and compare their height and angle. The goal is not to invent a new attachment position but to make the two pieces use the supplied R3-6 attachment zone consistently.

Arms: A Small Repeat With a Fixed Attachment Point

The arms are another compact component. Their stitch count stabilizes at 8 stitches for most of the piece.

Arms – Black

1. Mr 4sc (4)
2. 4inc (8)
3. 8sc (8)
4. 8sc (8)
5. 8sc (8)
6. 8sc (8)
7. 8sc (8)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing at R15 of the body. The source states that the arms are not stuffed. fileciteturn5file1

When attaching the arms, use R15 as the technical reference. The visual photograph can help with orientation, but it should not replace the written sewing location.

Watermelon Purse: Finish With the Color Accent

The watermelon purse is the final accessory and provides a compact exercise in color changes. The main purse starts in red, changes to cream in R4, and changes to green in R5.

Water Melon Purse – Red

1. Mr 5sc (5)
2. 5inc (10)
3. 10sc (10)
4. Cream (sc, inc)*5 (15)
5. Green (4sc, inc)*3 (18)

Use the long yarn tail to sew the purse fast. Use the same green yarn to make the purse’s stripe. The source says the purse can be stuffed, but the sample was not stuffed. fileciteturn5file5

The purse is a good final checkpoint because it contains all three accessory colors in only five rounds. Keep the color changes exactly where written instead of adding extra rows to make the accessory appear larger.

Assembly Order for a Clean Finish

A useful finishing routine is to complete each piece fully before moving into sewing. This keeps loose tails under control and makes it easier to identify what still needs to be attached.

1. Complete the head through R17.
2. Fasten off and stuff the head chubby, including extra stuffing at the cheeks.
3. Place the 12mm safety eyes between R10-11, 6 stitches apart.
4. Add the white eye lines.
5. Embroider the pink cheeks.
6. Insert the nose between R11-12 at the center.
7. Embroider the black mouth.
8. Complete both black legs.
9. Fasten off the first leg.
10. Keep the second leg attached and make ch 3 in white to join the first leg.
11. Complete the body through R16.
12. Stuff the body a lot.
13. Use the long tail to sew the body to the head.
14. Complete the ears and leave them unstuffed.
15. Sew the ears between R3-6 on the head.
16. Complete the arms and leave them unstuffed.
17. Sew the arms at R15 of the body.
18. Complete the watermelon purse through R5.
19. Add its green stripe.
20. Sew the purse into place using the long tail.

Five Finishing Checks Before You Call the Panda Done

Check One: Face Alignment

Look at the eyes together rather than individually. Both should follow the specified R10-11 placement and maintain the six-stitch spacing. The nose should sit between R11-12 at the center.

Check Two: Cheek Volume

The head should be chubby, with some additional stuffing at the cheeks. If the face appears flatter than the reference, check the stuffing before altering the crochet structure.

Check Three: Body Volume

The source explicitly calls for substantial stuffing in the body. The torso should therefore be checked for filling before the body-to-head seam is completed.

Check Four: Unstuffed Appendages

The ears and arms are intentionally not stuffed. Their softness is part of the supplied construction.

Check Five: Sewing Locations

Verify the written attachment points: ears between R3-6 on the head and arms at R15 of the body. These are not optional visual suggestions; they are part of the original instructions.

Troubleshooting Guide

My Stitch Count Changes Unexpectedly

Stop at the last completed round and recount. The head should progress through the listed counts without adding corrective stitches. The body should reach 32 stitches in R6 and remain at 32 through R12. The ears finish at 12 stitches and the arms remain at 8 stitches from R2 through R7.

The Head Does Not Look Round

First check the stuffing. The source asks for a chubby head and extra filling at the cheeks. Also confirm that the head reached its 48-stitch stage in R11-R12 before beginning the decrease sequence.

The Panda’s Face Looks Unbalanced

Check the eye placement and spacing first. The eyes are 12mm, between R10-11, and 6 stitches apart. Then verify the center placement of the nose between R11-12.

The Body Is Too Loose

Check whether the body has been stuffed according to the source instruction to stuff it a lot. Also verify that the 32-stitch middle section was maintained from R6 through R12.

The Ears Look Too Large

Do not change the three-round ear pattern. Check that each ear was made with 6sc, 6inc, and 12sc, and that no stuffing was added.

The Arms Feel Bulky

The source does not call for stuffing the arms. Confirm that the pieces remain unstuffed before changing their orientation.

The Watermelon Purse Looks Different From the Reference

Check the color sequence first: red beginning, cream in R4, and green in R5. Then confirm that the purse ends at 18 stitches and that the green stripe was made using the same green yarn.

Quick Reference Card

• Hook: 4mm for chunky yarn, or another size depending on the yarn brand.
• Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby or listed alternatives; 120m for 100g.
• Safety eyes: 12mm.
• Eye position: between R10-11.
• Eye spacing: 6 stitches apart.
• Nose: between R11-12 at the center.
• Head: 17 rounds, finishing at 18 stitches.
• Legs: two black pieces, 5 stitches to 10 stitches, then 10sc through R4.
• Leg join: ch 3 in white from the second leg.
• Body: R5 = 26, R6 = 32, R7-R12 = 32, R13 = 30, R14 = 30, R15 = 24, R16 = 18.
• Ears: 6, 12, 12; unstuffed; sew between R3-6.
• Arms: 4, 8, then 8 through R7; unstuffed; sew at R15.
• Watermelon purse: 5, 10, 10, 15, 18; add the green stripe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a finished size given in the original pattern?

No finished-size measurement is provided in the supplied source, so this guide does not add one.

Is a gauge provided?

No gauge is stated in the supplied pattern.

What hook is recommended?

The source recommends a 4mm crochet hook for chunky yarn, with the note that another size may depend on the yarn brand.

What yarn is named?

Himalaya Dolphin Baby is named, along with examples including Bernat Blanket, Parfait, and Yarn Art. The source specifies 120m for 100g.

What size are the safety eyes?

They are 12mm.

How far apart are the eyes?

The eyes are inserted between R10-11 and are 6 stitches apart.

Where does the nose go?

Between R11-12 at the center of the face.

How should the head be stuffed?

Stuff the head chubby and add some extra stuffing at the cheeks.

How should the body be stuffed?

The source says to stuff the body a lot.

Are the ears stuffed?

No. The ears are not stuffed.

Are the arms stuffed?

No. The arms are not stuffed.

Where are the ears sewn?

Between R3-6 on the head.

Where are the arms sewn?

At R15 of the body.

Can the watermelon purse be stuffed?

Yes, stuffing is optional. The designer’s sample was not stuffed.

Final Finishing Notes

POPO the Panda is a good project to approach in checkpoints rather than as one large task. The head has the most intricate colorwork and facial placement, so it benefits from careful counting. The body has a distinctive leg-joining sequence, making the second-leg yarn connection especially important. The ears and arms are quick to crochet but depend on precise sewing locations, while the watermelon purse is a short accessory whose color sequence should remain unchanged.

The most useful finishing principle is simple: when something looks different from the reference, check the source’s technical checkpoints before changing the pattern. Verify the round, recount the stitches, check the color change, confirm the stuffing instruction, and review the sewing location. This keeps the finished character faithful to the original construction instead of introducing accidental changes.

With the head filled and the facial details in place, the body firmly stuffed, the ears and arms attached without stuffing, and the watermelon purse sewn on, the separate crochet pieces become the finished POPO character shown in the reference photographs.

Pattern source and credit: POPO The Panda 2022, credited in the supplied source to Instagram @rin.meow21. The original pattern includes its own request concerning translation, selling, and free sharing, as well as a statement about donating pattern earnings to a cancer fund. Respect the designer’s stated terms when publishing, translating, selling, or redistributing the original pattern.

Enjoy making POPO the Panda and take your time with the final stitches, embroidery, stuffing, and sewing.