This crochet panda is easiest to understand when you treat the project as a chain of controlled checkpoints. Each individual component is manageable, but the finished amigurumi depends on several exact relationships: the eye patches must sit correctly around the 10 mm safety eyes, the ears must be joined symmetrically, the legs and tail must be incorporated during the body construction, and the green sweater must transition cleanly from the white belly. This guide presents the pattern as a construction and finishing workshop so you can check those relationships as you work.
The source specifies a finished size of 19 cm when crocheted tightly and approximately 15 cm while sitting. The hook is 2.5 mm, and the yarn is YarnArt Jeans, listed as 55% cotton and 45% polyacrylic, 50 g / 160 m. The color plan is white 62, black 53, green 69, and pink 74. The approximate amounts listed are 20 g white, 20 g black, 15 g green, and 5 g pink. Safety eyes are 10 mm, and hollow fiber is used for stuffing.
Read the Pattern as Four Construction Zones
Instead of beginning with a long list of rounds, divide the project mentally into four zones. The first is the small components: feet, legs, hands, ears, eye patches, and tail. The second is the head and face, where placement is more important than speed. The third is the body, where the legs and tail are joined and the green sweater begins. The fourth is final assembly, where the head, limbs, stuffing, and yarn tails are brought together.
This approach is useful because every zone has a different kind of checkpoint. Small components are mainly about matching pairs. The head is about symmetry and facial measurements. The body is about joining several pieces without losing the stitch count. Final assembly is about shape, firmness, and visual balance.
Materials and Color Control
| Material | Specified detail |
|---|---|
| Crochet hook | 2.5 mm |
| Yarn | YarnArt Jeans, 55% cotton / 45% polyacrylic, 50 g / 160 m |
| White | Color 62, approximately 20 g |
| Black | Color 53, approximately 20 g |
| Green | Color 69, approximately 15 g |
| Pink | Color 74, approximately 5 g |
| Safety eyes | 10 mm |
| Stuffing | Hollow fiber |
Keep the four colors physically separated while crocheting. The black and green sections can look similar under artificial light, especially when the black yarn has a dense stitch texture. The photographs are therefore useful as color references, while the written color instructions remain the technical authority.
Abbreviation Key Before You Start
- R — row
- ch — chain
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- tr — treble crochet
- inc — increase, 2 sc in one stitch
- dec — decrease, 2 sc together
The supplied source also includes a stitch-symbol chart. Keep that chart close if you prefer working from the visual symbols rather than only from written abbreviations.
Build the Feet and Legs First
The leg is one of the most important paired components because it establishes the sitting posture. Make both legs with the same tension and compare their shape before attaching either one to the body. The first two rounds are pink, and the following rounds are black.
- R1: Start with 7 chains. In the second chain from the hook: aum, 4 sc, 4 sc in one chain, 4 sc, aum [16].
- R2: aum, 5 sc, 4 aum, 5 sc, aum [22].
- R3: (3 sc in one stitch), 7 sc, (3 sc in one stitch), 4 sc, (3 sc in one stitch), 8 sc [28].
- R4-5: 28 sc [28].
- R6: 1 sc, dism, 25 sc [27].
- R7: 8 sc, 6 dism, 7 sc [21].
- R8: 7 sc, 4 dism, 6 sc [17].
- R9: 7 sc, 2 dism, 6 sc [15].
- R10: 7 sc, dism, 6 sc [14].
- R11-17: 14 sc [14].
- R18: 1 sc, 2 dism, 9 sc [12].
- R19: 12 sc [12].
- R20: Crochet only 2 sc. Fold the piece in half and crochet 6 sc.
Fill each leg with hollow fiber only through R14, as specified. The lower foot should retain enough structure to show the rounded shape visible in the reference photographs.
Make the Hands as Matching Sleeves
The hands use black followed by green, producing the black mitten-like ends and green sleeves visible on the finished panda. Make the pair before sewing them to the body.
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6].
- R2: (aum) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: (2 sc, aum) repeat 4 times [16].
- R4-5: 16 sc [16].
- R6: (6 sc, dism) repeat 2 times [14].
- R7-8: 14 sc [14].
- R9: 14 sc [14].
- R10: (5 sc, dism) repeat 2 times [12].
- R11-17: 12 sc [12].
- R18: (4 sc, dism) repeat 2 times [10]. Fold in half and crochet 5 sc.
Fill with hollow fiber only through R16. Before joining the hands during R25 of the body, compare them side by side and make sure the green sections have the same length.
Shape the Ears and Tail
Ears
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring, or 2 ch and in the second chain from the hook work 6 sc [6].
- R2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: (5 sc, aum) repeat 2 times [14].
- R4-5: 14 sc [14].
- Fold in half and crochet 7 sc.
The ears are attached through the head rather than simply sewn anywhere that looks comfortable. Their final symmetry is controlled by R17.
Tail
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6].
- R2: (aum) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3-6: 12 sc [12].
- R7: (1 sc, dism) repeat 4 times [8].
- Fold in half and crochet 4 sc.
Keep the tail ready before beginning the body joining round. It is incorporated into the body construction rather than attached only after the body is complete.
The Face Is a Placement Project
Once the head is underway, slow down. A one-stitch difference in a small facial area can be more visually noticeable than a small difference elsewhere. The pattern supplies separate instructions for the left and right eye patches, so do not automatically mirror one written round into the other.
Left Eye Patch
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6].
- R2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: (2 hdc, dc) in one stitch, (dc, tr) in one stitch, tr.
Right Eye Patch
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6].
- R2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: tr, (tr, dc) in one stitch, (dc, 2 hdc) in one stitch, 1 sl st.
The source specifies 10 mm safety eyes, fixed between R7 and R8 at a distance of 12 hdc. The nose is inserted in R1. These are fixed technical placement instructions and should not be moved simply to compensate for an uneven patch.
Head Construction: Record the Growth Before the Closing
The head begins with a small magic ring and grows to 56 stitches. R13 through R16 remain at 56 sc, giving the central part of the head its rounded volume. Then the final rounds decrease the circumference in controlled steps.
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6].
- R2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: 2 sc, (3 sc in one loop) repeat 2 times, 4 sc, (3 sc in one loop) repeat 2 times, 2 sc [20].
- R4: 4 sc, 3 aum, 7 sc, 3 aum, 3 sc [26].
- R5-6: 26 sc [26].
- R7: 10 sc, (2 hdc in one stitch) repeat 7 times, 9 sc [33].
- R8: aum, 7 sc, aum, 1 sc, 2 hdc, (2 hdc in one stitch, hdc) repeat 6 times, 1 hdc, 1 sc, aum, 6 sc [42].
- R9: 1 sc, aum, 7 sc, aum, 7 sc, aum, 4 sc, aum, 4 sc, aum, 8 sc, aum, 5 sc [48].
- R10: 15 sc, (aum, 6 sc) repeat 4 times, 5 sc [52].
- R11: 22 sc, aum, 10 sc, aum, 18 sc [54].
- R12: 27 sc, aum, 2 sc, aum, 23 sc [56].
- R13-16: 56 sc [56].
R17: The Ear and Symmetry Round
R17: 18 sc, 7 sc to join the body with the sc stitches in the ear, 11 sc, 7 sc to join the body with the sc stitches in the ear, 13 sc [56].
The source explicitly notes that the ears are symmetrical with 11 sc between them. This is one of the easiest checkpoints to verify from the front. If the ears look uneven, check this round before changing the sewing position.
- R18-19: 56 sc [56].
- R20: (5 sc, dism) repeat 8 times [48].
- R21: (6 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [42].
- R22: (5 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [36].
- R23: (4 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [30].
- R24: (3 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [24].
- R25: (2 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [18].
- R26: (1 sc, dism) repeat 6 times [12].
- R27: 6 dism [6].
Finish and hide the yarn. Sew the eye patches to the head according to the supplied photographs.
Body Construction: The R13 Joining Round Is the Main Checkpoint
The body begins in white and expands to 48 stitches. The first twelve rounds establish the belly shape. R13 then changes the nature of the work: the legs and tail become part of the body rather than separate pieces.
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring, or 2 ch and in the second chain from the hook work 6 sc [6].
- R2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12].
- R3: (1 sc, aum) repeat 6 times [18].
- R4: (2 sc, aum) repeat 6 times [24].
- R5: (3 sc, aum) repeat 6 times [30].
- R6: 1 sc, aum, (4 sc, aum) repeat 5 times, 3 sc [36].
- R7: (5 sc, aum) repeat 6 times [42].
- R8: 2 sc, aum, (6 sc, aum) repeat 5 times, 4 sc [48].
- R9-12: 48 sc [48].
R13 Joining Sequence
Work 9 sc, 6 sc to join the body with the sc stitches of the leg, 18 sc, 6 sc to join the body with the sc stitches of the other leg, 7 sc [46]. Work 2 sc without crocheting. Then work 4 sc to join the body with the sc stitches of the tail. Place the marker: this is the beginning of R14. Change to green.
This is a round where it is worth physically stopping and checking the work. Both legs should face in the same direction, the body should remain centered, and the tail should be ready for the specified four-stitch join.
Green Sweater: Continue Without Losing the Body Shape
- R14-16: 48 sc [48].
- R17: 11 sc, dism, (6 sc, dism) repeat 3 times, 11 sc [44].
- R18: 7 sc, dism, (5 sc, dism) repeat 4 times, 7 sc [39].
- R19: 2 sc, dism, 12 sc, dism, 3 sc, dism, 12 sc, dism, 2 sc [35].
- R20: 9 sc, dism, 13 sc, dism, 9 sc [33].
- R21: 33 sc [33].
- R22: 11 sc, dism, (3 sc, dism) repeat 2 times, 10 sc [30].
- R23: 4 sc, dism, 19 sc, dism, 3 sc [28].
- R24: (5 sc, dism) repeat 4 times [24].
- R25: 5 sc, 5 sc to join the body with the sc stitches of one hand, 7 sc, 5 sc to join the body with the sc stitches of the other hand, 2 sc [24].
- R26: (4 sc, dism) repeat 4 times [20].
At R25, the hands are joined at the sides. Before continuing, hold the body upright and check that the two arms visually balance each other. The source specifically says the hands should be at the sides and look harmonious with the body.
How to Use the Photographs Without Changing the Pattern
Photographs are excellent for answering visual questions, but they should not be used to invent missing numbers. For example, a photograph can show that the ears appear balanced, but the technical instruction that establishes the balance is R17 with 11 sc between the ears. A photograph can show the finished leg, but the exact stitch counts come from the written rounds.
Use each image for one of three purposes: shape comparison, placement comparison, or assembly direction. If a picture appears different from your work, first inspect the corresponding round and stitch count. Do not automatically add or remove stitches just because a visual comparison looks slightly different.
Stuffing Strategy for a Firm but Soft Panda
Stuffing affects the silhouette, especially in a rounded amigurumi. The specified material is hollow fiber. The pattern gives specific filling limits for the legs and hands, so those limits should be followed exactly. The leg is filled only through R14. The hand is filled only through R16.
For the head and body, distribute stuffing gradually while the opening is still accessible. A rounded surface is easier to control when the filling is spread rather than packed into one side. Before final closure, look at the head from the front and sides. The eye patches and nose should remain on the intended face plane rather than being pushed outward by uneven stuffing.
At the final head-to-body seam, the source gives a particularly important finishing instruction: add more stuffing at the neck while sewing the head to the body so that the head fits perfectly to the neck. This should be done during the sewing stage, when the seam can still be adjusted.
Finishing and Sewing Checkpoints
Face
Confirm that both 10 mm eyes are installed between R7 and R8 and are 12 hdc apart. Confirm that the nose is inserted in R1. Then compare the finished eye-patch shapes with the supplied reference photograph.
Ears
Check the R17 joining positions and the 11 sc between the ears. The ears should read as a matched pair from the front.
Legs
Check that both legs face consistently and that the R13 joins have not twisted the body. The seated silhouette depends on their orientation.
Hands
Check the R25 joins and make sure both hands remain at the sides. The green sleeves should appear balanced around the sweater.
Head-to-body seam
Use the neck stuffing instruction from the source. The goal is a secure, visually clean transition from the round head to the narrower body opening.
Stitch Count Dashboard
| Component | Key counts |
|---|---|
| Leg | 16, 22, 28, 27, 21, 17, 15, 14, 12, 12 |
| Hand | 6, 12, 16, 14, 12, 10 |
| Ear | 6, 12, 14 |
| Tail | 6, 12, 8 |
| Head expansion | 6, 12, 20, 26, 33, 42, 48, 52, 54, 56 |
| Head closure | 48, 42, 36, 30, 24, 18, 12, 6 |
| Body base | 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48 |
| Body R13 | 46 after leg joins |
| Green body | 48, 44, 39, 35, 33, 33, 30, 28, 24, 24, 20 |
This dashboard is a checking aid, not a replacement for the complete round instructions. If a count differs, return to the round itself and identify where the difference occurred instead of altering a later round to compensate.
Troubleshooting by Construction Stage
My paired pieces are different sizes.
Compare tension first, then compare the round counts. Do not assume that sewing can hide a difference in length. For legs, hands, and ears, matching the written rounds is the most reliable way to create a balanced pair.
The eye patches look reversed.
Remember that the left and right R3 instructions are written differently. Identify each patch before attaching it and compare it with the face photographs.
The face looks tilted.
Check the eye positions and the nose placement before moving the patches. The eyes are fixed between R7 and R8 at a distance of 12 hdc, and the nose is inserted in R1.
The ears are not symmetrical.
Review R17. The source places 7 sc into each ear join and specifies 11 sc between the ears.
The legs seem to point in different directions.
Before continuing after R13, hold the body upright and verify that the legs were joined with the same orientation. The R13 photographs are particularly helpful for this stage.
The sweater opening feels too large.
Check the stitch counts through R24 and R25 rather than changing tension halfway through. R25 should finish at [24], and R26 reduces the count to [20].
The neck looks loose after sewing.
Follow the source’s finishing instruction and add more stuffing at the neck while sewing the head to the body.
Quick Reference: The Most Important Numbers
- Hook: 2.5 mm.
- Finished size: 19 cm with tight crochet; approximately 15 cm sitting.
- Safety eyes: 10 mm.
- Eye placement: between R7 and R8, 12 hdc apart.
- Nose: inserted in R1.
- Ear spacing: 11 sc between the ears in R17.
- Leg joining: R13.
- Tail joining: R13.
- Hand joining: R25.
- Leg stuffing: through R14.
- Hand stuffing: through R16.
- Head maximum: 56 stitches.
- Body base maximum: 48 stitches before the R13 joining sequence.
Final Assembly Checklist
- ☐ Two matching legs completed.
- ☐ Two matching hands completed.
- ☐ Two ears completed.
- ☐ Tail completed.
- ☐ Left and right eye patches identified correctly.
- ☐ 10 mm safety eyes installed between R7 and R8.
- ☐ Eye distance checked at 12 hdc.
- ☐ Nose inserted in R1.
- ☐ Head completed through R27.
- ☐ R17 ear spacing checked at 11 sc.
- ☐ Legs joined during R13.
- ☐ Tail joined during R13.
- ☐ Green yarn started according to the R13 instruction.
- ☐ Hands joined during R25.
- ☐ Body completed through R26.
- ☐ Head sewn securely to the body.
- ☐ Additional neck stuffing added during head-to-body sewing.
- ☐ All visible seams and yarn tails checked.
Finished Project
The completed panda should have a compact seated silhouette, a rounded white head, black ears and eye patches, green-ringed 10 mm safety eyes, a black nose, a green sweater, black limbs, and the pink foot details shown in the reference photographs. The visual character comes from the relationship between these components, so the last stage is worth treating as a careful inspection rather than a quick cleanup.
When checking your finished project, give priority to the source’s stitch counts, round numbers, joining instructions, color changes, and measurements. Use the photographs to understand shape and placement, but do not replace a written technical instruction with an estimate based on appearance. That combination—exact stitch information plus visual checkpoints—is the safest way to keep the finished amigurumi faithful to the supplied pattern.
This construction-focused method also makes the pattern easier to revisit. If you need to remake one component, the stitch-count dashboard and assembly checkpoints provide a compact map of where each piece belongs. Work patiently through the joins, keep the paired pieces together, and make the final neck adjustment during sewing as specified. The result is the recognizable little panda shown in the source images.